Estonia 15th to 23rd of May 1998
PPLY trip to Estonia 15th to 23rd of May 1998
On the 15th of May the long waited trip to Estonia finally started. After all there were 7 participans: Janne Aalto, Hanna Soikkeli, Helge Eskelinen, Kari Kivirinta, Mauri Hautaniemi, Jukka “Piippo” Piispanen and catalan Oriol Clarabuch.
At 6 a.m. we left from Raksila shops to drive towards south. An ATM swallowed Helge’s card but we didn’t care, we left on the schedule.
Piippo was driving first with his yellow “caramel” and Mauri’s Volgswagen was following. We had also my brother Pirkka on our car – he was going to Helsinki.
We were of course counting trip ticks but the first stop was made because of the tank was empty! So we got some common birds to our trip-list while Piippo was getting some gasolin for us from the next service.
When we got more south the trees started to get green and the temperature was getting higher. When we got to Helsinki we had already very hot in our car!
Ferry to Estonia
We found the ferry terminal easily, even though it was difficult to follow Piippo who was driving all the traffic light on yellow. In a harbour we changed marks to krones and somehow we managed to get in to the ferry even though we had bought the cheapest tickets for our cars. We had bigger cars that should have paid more to get in.
Of course we carried a telescope to the upper deck and when the ferry finally left we got some year-ticks like Eiders, Mute Swans. Of course we saw some better birds too like a male Scaup, some Barnacle Geese, a flock 0f 8 Black Guillemots, a Razorbill, 12 Arctic Skuas, divers and some distant flocks of sea-ducks, mostly Long-tailed ducks.
In Tallinn harbour we saw lots of ducks with some Shelducks, also 6 Grey Herons were seen in flight. On the harbour we all were smiling except Oriol who was worried if it would be easy to get to Estonia for him. It was surprisingly difficult to get a spanish to Estonia but finally he got through all the offices and we could see Oriol smiling too!
We filled the tanks (gasonline was half the price than in Finland) and after we had driven through Turba and Rumba and many other strange named places we arrived to Matsalu! After we had been searching for our apartment for some time, we decided to knock to the door of only house of the village that still had lights on and surprisingly it was the keeper of the apartment’s house. So soon we were making a big apartment to our home and it was very late when we finally got to sleep.
Birds, birds, birds!
On the 16th of May we woke up in the middle of paradise! The first bird I saw from the window was a White Stork. Many birds were singing and I had no idea what some of them were! It had been almost winter in Oulu and now we were in the middle of spring!
Once we got out we found Gold Finches, Linnets, Hawfinches and many birds that weren’t’ in Oulu yet like Garden Warblers, Common Whitethroats, Lesser Whitethroats, a couple of Icterine Warblers and Thrush Nightingales. There were huge numbers of Starlings but the strangest noice was coming from the fields nearby. We hurried towards the fields and passed a pool where were a couple of Gadwalls and Garganeys and soon we saw amazing numbers of Barnacle Geese! About 10 000 geese were feeding in a big flock very close to us! We started to check the flock as well as it was possible but found only some Greylag Geese amongst the Barnacle Geese. Behind the fields we saw a bay where a couple of White-tailed Eagles were perched on the rocks.
After the breakfast the rest of our group was up too and soon we saw something amazing, we saw the geese leaving to migration! It was one of the best bird-experiences I had ever had! First we heard an enormous noise from the fields and it took some time to understand it was from geese not a local Massey-Ferguson! We hurried to the fields and saw thousands and thousands of geese flushing and leave towards Finland. Cameras were of course clicking when the geese were flying over us but soon it was quiet – the fields were empty! Only thing we heard were songbirds.
Helge, Mauri and Piippo left to Keemu bird-tower that was nearby and of course they managed to see a Red-breasted Goose! Unfortunately it wasn’t there anymore when we got there. Anyway we saw lots of Black-tailed Godwits, a Bar-tailed Godwit, some White-tailed Eagles and a White-fronted Goose.
To Saarenmaa
At midday we emptied our rooms and left towards Saarenmaa. Soon we were on ferry-terminal and got to the ferry that was just leaving. It took only about a half an hour and we saw a Sandwich Tern, divers, Cormorants and Scaups on the way.
In Saarenmaa we found soon more Sandwich Terns from Väigeväin bridge and then continued towards Santlalahti. It was told to be a good place. Unfortunately we had problems to find the place and after all we asked help from local drunk. One of them left to show us how to find the place and so we were following a Lada through fields towards the bay. Once we found the place the Lada had flushed half of the birds and then it was difficult to get rid of our guide. After we had given him a bottle of Saku beer he finally left. Luckily the place seemed to be good and there were still lots of birds.
Sandy beaches were full of geese shit (we were thinking what could be done with this big amount of it) and we saw several Little Terns a White-tailed Eagle, many Pochards and Gadwalls and some Slavonian Grebes. Reed and Great Reed Warblers were singing on the reeds and a Peregrine Falcon was soaring on the sky. From the other side of the pools we still found some Dunlins, Temminck’s Stints and Velvet Scoters.
When we were back to our cars we found a strange pipit that we managed to identify as a Tawny Pipit before it disappeared. It was already late when we continued to Kuressaari which was a surprisingly big city. After some searching we found a good hostel. Older participants got better and younger cheaper rooms.
In the evening we still had a good dinner that PPLY paid. It was really good and even though one of us had problems with paying with his credit card, we had really good time. It is good to remember it is not too long Estonia was still part of Russia – everything can’t work as well as in Finland.
Hardcore birding
On the 17th of May the rooster woke up early. We had a great breakfast and Piippo told he had seen a Black Redstart and heard a Turtle Dove from their window. We had heard only a Thrush Nightingale – all night and too loud! We searched for the Black Redstart for some time and some of us managed to see it briefly. A Collared Dove was calling in the garden.
Soon we drove to Sörvesäär to do sea and migration watching Unfortunately there was no migration so soon we were bored to watch only Eiders and some were collecting fossils (Hanna and Helge), some were checking all the old garbage like a scooter (Mauri) and some were climbing on an old wrecked boat (Piippo). The weather was perfect, maybe 20 degrees, so we really enjoyed! Soon we continued to next places but only good birds were a Grey-headed Woodpecker that Kari saw while visiting a bush and an eagle that we saw in Löulahti, unfortunately it was too far to identify,
In Linnulahti 6 Great Reed Warblers were singing, a Bittern blowing, Dunnock was seen singing on the top of a tree (some could only see it was singing) and on the bay a Red-necked Grebe and a female Smew were found. On the sky we saw an Osprey and a Goshawk. The next bay, Kuressaarenlahti showed us something else than birds, a Red Fox was sleeping in one garden and a huge Grass Snake was sleeping in the shore. Reed Warbler was singing and many Grey Herons, Gadwalls and Black-tailed Godwits were also seen.
It was again getting late when we headed towards the ferry. Drivers were the most tired but then some funny things happened. First a deer or something like that ran just in front of our car and then a two legged beautiful hitch-hiker was picked up to Piippo’s yellow party-car. I felt sorry for this girl, the men on the car were a bit older then she was.
There was still room for two cars on the ferry when it was our turn, but only Piippo’s car with a girl still with them got there. The last place was for an ambulance that came soon and we were left to the island.
Arctica!
When we finally got to the next ferry we could see than arctica had begun! There were lots of big flocks of sea-duck on the sky! Once we got to Virtsu the rest of our group who had dropped the hitch-hiker somewhere, had already seen thousands of Common and Velvet Scoters and Long-tailed Ducks. This was what we had hoped to see! After all, in a couple of hours, we saw about 200 000 birds – mostly Long-tailed Ducks.
When the migration stopped we continued to Penijö where we had an apartment for the rest of the trip. There was a sauna too and of course we heated it up right away. It was nice to watch a local pair of White Storks breeding on the top of an electric pole in the garden. Grasshopper Warblers were singing, corn Crakes shouting and a Tawny Owl calling while we were waiting for our turn to go to sauna.
After having the sauna we left with Hanna and Oriol to a short night-singer trip and we heard a couple of River Warblers, a Sopped Crake and more Corn Crakes. It was nice to find out that a Grasshopper Warbler comes to sing to a torch light – so we could see it well.
Good birds!
On the 18th of May we had a great breakfast and soon found a male White-backed Woodpecker from the garden. Soon we continued to bird-towers that were nearby. While we were walking to Penijö tower we realized it was going to be a hot day! From the tower we saw a Golden Eagle, a White-tailed Eagle, a Goshawk, some Grey Herons, a Sandwich Tern and a White-fronted Goose. Next we walked a patch that lft from the tower. Icterine Warblers were everywhere and also an Elk, a Red Fox and deers were seen. I saw the best bird when I went to walk to a wet meadow and flushed a Short-toed Lark!
Once we were back in our garden Oriol found a Marsh Tit which also disappeared soon.
Then we continued to Kloostri tower which was another high Russian type of border guardian tower, 12 to15 metres high iron thing. Anyway the view was again really good and amazing 56 White Storks, 9 Grey Herons, 2 White-tailed Eagles and many other birds were seen.
Suitsu tower was in the middle of a forest where a Wryneck and a White-backed Woodpecker were heard. Only a White-tailed Eagle and an Osprey were seen.
Next we continued to Lihula to eat and then we drove to Puhtu grove near Virtsu. It was a beautiful forest with big trees and many flowers. Some Wrens and Icterine Warblers were heard. A bird-station was situated in the middle of the grove and we met a couple of Finnish birders that were staying there.
Soon it was time for evening arctica so we stayed there. Unfortunately most of the birds would have been seen much better from Virtsu so we decided to drive there. We counted 27 000 Barnacle Geese, some small flocks of Brent Geese, some Sandwich Terns and so on were seen but mostly far on the sea.
A perfect day had a bad ending when we heard that Finland had lost to Sweden in ice-hockey WC final 0-1.
North side of Matsalu and bog birding
On the 19th of May we woke up early and headed to Virtsu again. Unfortunately we saw only some tens of Black-throated and Red-throated Divers. The wind was too strong! A nice flock of 4 Red-necked Phalarope were seen migrating between the waves.
After the breakfast we went to check the towers of the northern side of Matsalu. While we were filling the tank in Lihula we saw the first Montagu’s Harrier of the trip.
On the way to Haeska tower we saw another Montagu’s Harrier and on one shore we saw Little Terns and a Whooper Swan. From the tower we saw Black-tailed Godwits, more Little Terns and a Bewick’s Swan. Next we continued to Puisenniemi and on the way we saw 2 male and a female Montagu’s Harrriers and on the shore 8 Red-necked Phalaropes and 3 Curlew Sandpipers. Puisenniemi wasn’t good so soon we headed to Haapsalu to eat. The food was good and cheap. Roe Deer in red wine sauce was something we students don’t normally eat.
In the afternoon we drove to a big bog area to search for eagles. Soon we found one flying on the sky over a forest and it was a Lesser Spotted Eagle! Soon another bird came to fly together with the first one and they started displaying! Amazing! Next stop was made in the middle of a big bog where the drivers started to sleep just along the road. The rest of us saw Montagu’s Harriers, Marsh Harriers, a Common Buzzard, 2 White-tailed Eagles, Ravens, Cranes and White Storks. In the evening we drove back to Penijö where Oriol heated up sauna and managed to do it very well! A Long-eared Owl was calling on the forest nearby.
Black Storks and Lesser Spotted Eagles
On the 20th of May we woke up really early 3:15 a.m. Soon we headed toward Kabli ringing station. After a couple of hour’s drive we found out that the station was closed. Even a big fella was closed. From the tower and from the shore we found 8 Reed Warblers, 3 Marsh Warblers, a Blackcap, a Black Woodpecker, Grey Plovers, Little Ringed Plovers and a Wood Lark that flew over us.
As we hadn’t got an opportunity to see any ringing we decided to continue to Nigula National Park which was situated near Latvian border. On the way we stopped in good looking forests and heard 2 Wrens, an Icterine Warbler, a Dunnock, 2 Oriols and a Red-breasted Flycatcher. Also a Nutcracker was seen flying over the road before we parked next to the information centre.
A guide spoke only estonian but he let us go in to the National Park because of Kari had joined a local bird-club. We left to walk to 6.8 km long trail and after a kilometre or so we got to the first of two bird-towers. We had hardly got up when Piippo found a Black Stork flying far over the huge bog. We were enjoying this majestic bird when Helge told there was another Black Stork much closer! The situation was so amazing that Piippo told it was dreams come true for him! After some time we continued towards the next tower. The bog was amazing; it was really like in Lapland! From the second tower we saw a Great Grey Shrike and a Whimbrel, but also a Honey Buzzard, 2 Common Buzzards and a Lesser Spotted Eagle. There would have been a possibility to see also a Greater Spotted Eagle too.
The trail led next to a huge grove which was very different from the bog. There were Icterine Warblers, Wrens and even 5 Red-bresated Flycatchers singing! New trip-ticks were a Treecreeper and a Greater Spotted Woodpecker.
Once we were walking back to our car it started to rain. Soon we were driving towards Pärnu and in the city we went to a restaurant. In the evening we were once again driving to Virtsu when police stopped us. I was driving first time during the trip and of course without lights. Piippo and Oriol were on the trunk so I hoped the policemen won’t open the door. Luckily they let us go without checking us more carefully.
It was very quiet in Virtsu, but we met a local man who seemed to know everything about us. He knew where we had been and so on. People were really interested of us.
After sauna we left to a night-singer trip by bike with Hanna and Oriol, that’s why we had brought our bikes. We heard 3 River Warblers, 14 Grasshopper Warblers, a Marsh Warbler, 100 Thrush Nightingales, 32 Corn Crakes, tens of Spotted Crakes and so on. We even tried to see a Corn Crake and managed to get it only 12 metres from us but still we didn’t see it!
Same places again
On the morning of 21st of May we decided to check all the best places again. Anyway we started on the fields that had lots of juniper but we found only lots of cows. The place looked perfect for a Barred Warbler.
On the way to Matsalu information centre we saw 3 Whooper Swans, but the fields were empty, no more geese. On the pool we saw a Shelduck and a Garganey and on the garden many Hawfinches, Gold Finches and Linnets, In Keemu tower we saw a White-tailed Eagle, Black-tailed Godwit, Red-necked Phalaropes and Shelducks. Kari managed to see a Sanderling too.
In Saastna we visited a shop and there we met another man who knew everything about us even though we hadn’t been in Saastna before – crazy!
When we started to feel tired we decide to visit Penijö information centre. A local guide showed us some slides and most of the places were already familiar. Next we walked a short trail but only a Blackcap was heard.
In the evening we still visited Virtsu and saw a flock of 260 Brent Geese migrating along the shoreline us and some more flocks flying straight over us. After sauna we went to sleep.
Back to home
On the 22nd of May while we were packing our cars we found some Tree Sparrows. On the way to Tallinn we made the only stop in Risti where we saw no eagles, just a couple of Honey Buzzards and Stock Doves.
In Tallinn we did some shopping and of course visited Old Tallinn. The best bird was a singing Black Redstart. After a good dinner we left to the ferry and on the ferry we still spent some time on the deck and of course did some more shopping. On the toll the officers were very interested of our optics but luckily we had all written on the paper already when we had left towards Estonia.
On the way north from Helsinki our drivers started to be too tired to continue. So we had to stop to Asikkala and book hotel rooms. The rooms were much more expensive than in Estonia!
On the 23rd of May we left early to drive towards Oulu. In Pihtipudas Kortteinen we twitched a flock of 11 Dotterels on one big fields. Local farmer welcomed us back to Finland and tried to drop some shit over our cars. Well our cars were maybe not too well parked.
In Kärsämäki we did some shopping and finally we were in Oulu where we drove straight to Jätäri where we twitched a Corn Bunting!
J.A.