Eastern Finland 26th of June to 8th of July 2003

Long time no see 😉

It was the end of June 2003 and we had still few days to work in Siikalahti. Our good friend Oriol Clarabuch was coming from Catalonia with his friend Toni Alonso to have some birding with us. On the 25th of June they landed at Helsinki-Vantaa airport. We couldn’t be there because we had still a lot of bird counting to do in Siikalahti.

By text messages I told Oriol and Toni to take the buss to Helsinki railway station, where they could leave their luggage. From there they took the taxi to the best birding area near Helsinki city – to Viikki. They had the whole night time for birding because the next train to Parikkala was leaving just in the morning.

After some difficulties (taxi driver couldn’t find Pornaistenniemi – very amazing!) Oriol and Toni could have very good birding in Viikki Lammassaari. They got Citrine Wagtail, Marsh Warbler, River Warbler, Corn Crake, Gadwall, Thrush Nightingale… Oriol saw also Grey-headed Woodpecker flying fast in forest.
At morning Oriol and Toni took the train 1.20 p.m. so they arrived at Parikkala 5.35 p.m.

It was very nice to see Oriol again. Last time we had seen in Egypt one and half year before. We have also been with him in Estonia one week, in Catalonia 2 weeks, in Siikajoki Tauvo ringing station several times… First we had some kebab and did some shopping before we went to Siikalahti. Of course we visited the bird tower but soon we let the Catalans have some sleep to information centre, where we let them stay (which is not normal). Guys were pretty tired because of the trip and last nights birding.

To twitch right away

Next morning we had still some counting to do, so Oriol and Toni were almost the whole morning watching birds at the bird tower. Nothing very special to us but I think they were happy to see Red-necked Grebes, Slavonian Grebes, Goldeneyes, Smews and Bitterns…

At night 11 p.m. we left to do some twitching. We tried to twitch Lanceolated Warbler at Ruokolahti Äitsaari. While Antti (our third guide) was driving I got little nervous because I couldn’t get any more information about the bird. Another thing that made me nervous was that Toni told that he has to see the bird before he takes the lifer – Finnish nightsingers are usually pretty difficult to see, at least the rare ones which you are not aloud to disturb at all in first three days. But now we didn’t have to worry about seeing the bird. We tried to hear it for two hours but it was gone. We heard only Long-eared Owl fledlings shouting and two wrong kind of “Locustellas” River and Grasshopper Warblers.

Well I decided that we have to get at least one good lifer for our friends so we turned our way to Joutseno Konnunsuo.

So this bird was very easy: Booted Warbler was already singing loudly when we opened the doors. We also saw it very easily and very well. So the first very important bird was now seen! It was still too dark for digiscoping so we decided to try, if Barred Warbler should be in same place than week before.

Well, we couldn’t find the Barred Warbler, so we drove back to digiscope the Booted Warbler. The bird was very nice! I think it even tried to come as beautifully as possible photographed. It was always sitting on the top of the closest willow and it was singing all the time. I think nobody has that kind of pictures of Booted Warbler – at least in Catalonia! I also took some pictures of Ortolan Bunting which was singing there too.

On the way back we went to see some Blyth’s Reed Warblers which Antti had found a night earlier. Of course Blyth’s Reed Warblers are here everywhere but these birds were easier than normally. There was three birds singing loudly very close of each others and one was also visible all the time. So we started to do some digiscoping with Oriol again.

Siikalahti

After some hours sleeping we were again in Siikalahti. Some waders (Little Ringed Plover, Ruffs, Green Sandpipers) but nothing better. We were just waiting that a White-tailed Eagle, which Hanna had seen earlier in the morning, would show up. Finally we found the Eagle sitting on the trees.

On the 28th of June I went with Oriol and Toni to count some nightsingers by rowing boat. We were rowing around the southern water area of Siikalahti. (Remember normally it’s not aloud to move away from tracks, because Siikalahti is a protected area.)We had to put all nightsingers (mostly Crakes in this time of year) to the map. There were some Water Rails shouting but not any Spotted Crakes! Little Crake female was still shouting now in little different place than earlier. We heard also some Reed and Great Reed Warblers. Also White-tailed Eagle showed up much better than day before.

After counting we took the nets and rings with us and went to do some nightsinger ringing. Oriol and Toni are both ringers (Oriol is a professional) so it was important for them to get some birds also photographed in hand.

First we decided to try a River Warbler South from Siikalahti. When biking we finally found an Icterine Warbler which Toni saw! It wasn’t easy! Soon we had our nets up and a River Warbler CD playing, but we couldn’t find the bird. One Marsh Warbler was singing there but that wasn’t interested of its voice either. Suddenly we heard River Warbler 200 metres from the right place. It had moved from earlier place to much better looking place. When we got our net up, the bird was after 10 seconds hanging there. Ring to the leg and some photographing and we continued to try Blyth’s Reed Warbler.

So we went to the same Blyth’s Reed Warbler place, and it was easy. While photographing the first ringed bird there was already another one hanging on the net. So we got two more birds ringed and about 50 pictures to our memory sticks.

29th day we made duck counting together. There was very few birds! Only interesting birds were two beautiful Cranes which flew shouting very close of us. After counting we loaned Antti’s car again and went to see some birds to Särkisalmi. Just Goosanders, Red-breasted Mergansers, Whooper Swans and Goldeneyes, nothing very special was seen, but enough for our friends.

We decided to try still one more Marsh Warbler at Hanna’s parent’s home yard, but we didn’t find it. But Oriol and Toni were happy to see Black-throated Divers which were swimming there in Tarvaslampi. At afternoon we still emptied our memory sticks and burned the pictures to CD and had sauna before we went to sleep very early. At night we would begin our real birding trip!

To North-Karelia

At 11 p.m. we started out first summer holiday trip. I was planned a week trip to North-Karelia, Kainuu and Kuusamo. And now it was just the right time for the eastern rarities. That was the reason why Oriol and Toni were here in this time of year. Some other time here is much more birds in Finland but not so good ones.

Now we had the best possible timing because night earlier there was a Lanceolated Warbler found in Kitee Ruppovaara. So we started our trip there. Now I had better feeling while driving, because I got information that the bird was still there. On the way we saw Short-eared Owl and Nightjar, but the information how to find the Lanceolated place were badly wrong. Luckily Jari “Putte” Nummelin saw us driving to wrong direction and he told us the right way for the bird. And the Lanceolated Warbler was singing there all the time. Because there were no more twitchers coming we decided to get closer to see the bird.

I don’t understand how we were so lucky, but we found the bird easily. (Second time I saw Lanceolated Warbler even I have heard about 10.) And this was the second really important bird already! (Of course Toni had got about dozen of lifers already!)

We hadn`t got more plans for the night, because I had thought that it can take time to see the Warbler. So we decided to continue to Värtsilä if we could find something interesting by our own. In Tohmajärvi I noticed a familiar sign; I thought there has been some bird in Musko. I checked my phone and there was a message about Booted Warblers in Musko. We drove the road with opened windows and after three kilometres there was a perfect kind of field. Soon we found two Booted Warblers singing. Other birds we found at night were Corn Crake, Grasshopper Warbler, Blyth’s Reed Warblers and some Short- and Long-eared Owls. Finally we went to Tohmajärvi to Peijonniemenlahti bird tower to sleep (Yes we slept in the tower)!

Owls!

We woke up because it started to rain. Actually we couldn’t have slept any longer. We checked the local birds (nothing special), and started our way to new places and new birds.

We had arranged an appointment with Ari Latja to Joensuu at 10 a.m. but we were in Joensuu already 8 a.m. So we visited Höytyäinen bird tower. Ten o’clock we were in Anttila shop with a lot of film bought.

Ari jumped in to our space car (VW Golf- very small), and our meaning was to twitch some local birds with a local guide. The first stop was in Kontiolahti (I promised I won’t tell the exact places). We didn’t tell the Catalans what we were searching for and it was funny to watch guys when we started to watch up to the trees. They didn’t know what to search a Wren or an Eagle. So the surprise was really big when we saw Great Grey Owl flying 50 meters from us! Owl landed to a tree directly.
After some celebrating we started to digiscope the Owl with Oriol. Even the bird was little far and we didn’t want to disturb it, we managed to get some pretty good pictures. When we walked back to car we heard Greenish Warbler singing other side the road.

Our next target was in same county and this time Ari told to Catalans that this time we had a little smaller bird. Soon we heard first scary low voices from the forest and Ural Owl flew a little and landed to a spruce. While digiscoping we heard some Wrens and Wood Warblers, but also Greenish Warbler again and shortly few tunes of Red-breasted Flycatcher. But all the birds were too close the Owl so we weren’t able to see them. We didn’t want to disturb the Owl and get its nails to our face.
When walking back to car a Hazel Hen flew in front of us, but unfortunately Toni couldn’t see it. So next lifer didn’t come – yet.

Thank to Ari we had seen two incredible birds for Catalans. So next we went to eat to a restaurant with Ari. I have to thank Ari one more time; he was the first pro birder who understood that if you help another birder he will help you later! So welcome to Siikalahti with groups Ari!

Some walking in Kolvananuuro

At evening we found ourselves from Koli and our friend Pekka Piironen’s cottage. The cottage was not a cottage anymore but it was twice as big as last summer. Pekka joined us and we continued to watch some views to Koli. Not a lot birds (some Chiffchaffs) but beautiful views and of course a possibility to Greenish Warblers and even Red-flanked Bluetail (we found both last summer). When back at cottage Pekka offered us A LOT of crisps, ice-cream and berries. Then we had sauna and went to sleep.

First of July: Alarm was before 3 a.m. We packed all important equipments to our car with us and again to Kontiolahti, this time to Kolvananuuro. On the way we didn’t again tell where we were going, so we continued all the time smaller and smaller tracks. And when we finally stopped there was an Arctic Warbler singing in a place called Kiimasäikkä. We used a little CD and we managed to take some pictures of the bird. 4/5 of us got a lifer (Not for me 🙁 )!

At Kolvananuuro we walked the rest of the morning. Views were beautiful! Wrens, Chiffchaffs, Green Warblers but no Greenish Warblers this time. (Last summer we found the nest.) We heard also some Hazel Hens but we couldn’t see any! On the halfway there was funny small salmon kind of fishes (hundred maybe) which liked to eat our chips. End of our walk we found first one Treecreeper, and then I heard some promising calls: Red-breasted Flycatchers, two of them. But only Oriol could see another of the birds.

From Hyrynsalmi to Suomussalmi

When back in Pekka’s cottage we took rest of our luggage and said goodbye to Pekka and continued towards North. In Nurmes we tried to twitch a Carrion Crow, a “lifer” to Hanna, but no. In Kuhmo Rastivaara we had to test our brakes because of Hazel Hen family – finally a lifer for Toni! In Hyrynsalmi Komulanköngäs we managed to get another lifer for Hanna – Grey Wagtail. Of course this was for Catalans something like Thrush Nightingale is for us. But it was nice to find out that there was a couple of Grey Wagtails and they were for sure breeding!

Finally we decided to go tenting to Suomussalmi Säynäjäsuo, which Ari Rajasärkkä told to be nice place on the phone – and it was.

Early morning we walked some kilometres on the bog. There were nice tracks so it was easy to walk. Red-throated Diver flew over us. Black-throated Diver and Whooper Swan families were swimming on the lake and Golden Plover, Whimbrel, Greenshank and Spotted Redshank were easy to digiscope.

Our way continued next more North and close to eastern border. First Waxwing was found on the way, but in midday we reached maybe the most interesting place on our whole trip! At least it was the most awaited for me – Suomussalmi Martinselkonen bear hide.

We slept an hour in a information centres small cottage, outside there was too many insects. About three o’clock we started our way to bear hide with a guide, two Swedish and two Finnish photographers.

Bears!

When we had walked to the hide there was already one bear eating. So our guide had to scare it away. We managed to see that bear running to the forest to wait us get in.

After we went in to the hide and managed to take our seats, we didn`t have to wait long for the first really big bear. It just took some fishes to its mouth and ran back to the forest. None of us could take a picture. After that we had to wait an hour the next bear but soon after that it started! First there came only biggest bears one by one but soon there came more and more bears to eat salmon very close the hide. The biggest bear (Bodybuilder) was badly hurt. It was walking just using its elbows. I think the second biggest bear (Black Panther) was the one who had been fighting against it. Anyway Bodybuilder was the king. When it came to eat others were scared and moved away from its way.

The bears were interestingly different looking; there were different sizes and colours but also other ways very different kind of bears. Mostly smaller ones (females) visited there very quickly. Bigger bears were just lying down and eating all the time! Before the evening there was once six bears together.

I was already wondering where our bird was, when it arrived: Black Kite landed just 12 meters from us to sit on the top of tree. Bird was almost too close and too high to digiscope! It was very difficult to scope the bird so high from the hole on the wall. Black Kite tried once to hit its nails to one bears back and it disappeared once, but luckily it came back and I could take very good pictures of it!

Later Black Kite moved to watch bears little further to the forest and before it came dark it disappeared hopefully to the nest. When it came dark there came even more bears all the time. It was dark for digiscoping but closest bears were so close that the light was enough. I got some beautiful face pictures. I tried also to photograph them through my binoculars but it was pretty difficult. Of course I took some pictures without anything, just with four times zoom and then I could get many bears to one picture. Oriol and Hanna had normal cameras and they could take amazing pictures!

Soon it came too dark for photographing so we just watched the bears! It was amazing! We weren’t waiting anything like this! Bears were so close – the closest one in ten meters. There was totally at least 14 bears! Nine in one time! In the hide it was like sauna. Weather was very hot, which made also bears act quite easily. So we saw only some bears hugging each others – not good fights like normally. At midnight there was a Merlin shouting some minutes so loud that all of us scared! All of us were sleeping at least an hour (maybe not Oriol, and Toni some more) but when sun started to rise we were again watching the bears very keen.

At morning bears had their stomachs full. They had eaten 200kg salmon! Only one (pretty ugly) bear stayed longer. I think it licked all the stones which were even smelling fish to get more to eat. Finally it understood there was nothing more to eat and walked to the forest and disappeared like other bears more than an hour earlier and we were finally able to walk out of the “sauna”. One of the most amazing nights ever was over!

To the famous birding area – Kuusamo

At the information centre we loaded our batteries and after that continued driving North. This time we were going to Kuusamo. On the way we saw some Waxwings and one Hazel Hen.

After long drive we were pretty tired when we made our first stop at Kuusamo Junttila. After some phone calls we found the right place and almost right away the right bird too – Little Bunting was singing on the top of pine. We rushed too fast so the bird scared of us and flew to hide.

Our next bird was in Saapunki. There had been a “maurus” Stonechat female breeding with Whinchat male. We couldn’t find the birds first, we found even the nest but not birds. But we knew there had been one nestling still three days earlier so the birds couldn’t be far. Soon we found maurus female calling. The fledling were somewhere very close of us so we took quickly some pictures and passed away.

The weather changed rainy but we had to move on. In the evening we parked our car to Iivaara hill. We carried our luggage for about one kilometre to our next tenting place. Already when carrying we saw one pair of Little Buntings. Finally we found a good place to stay and we started to cook some “makkara” (sausage). I had only another makkara ready when it happened: Red-flanked Bluetail started to sing. It was only 6 p.m. but the bird started to sing continuously. Well I left another sausage there and we went to try to see the bird. The hill was amazingly steep and we heard the sing all the time very close, but we had to climb a lot before we found the bird singing almost the top of high spruce. Catalans were extremely happy! We all hugged each others and only after good celebrations we started to digiscope the bird. The bird wasn’t old but even then it was very beautiful and we got many very good photos while it was singing all the on the same branch. This was the most important bird for Oriol on the whole trip! And I had been thinking that there is three important species for the trip and now we got them all: Booted and Lanceolated Warblers and Red-flanked Bluetail! Soon we all had enough pictures and after I ate another makkara I was soon enjoying my dreams about next days birds. The rain was testing our new tent whole night.

Some hiking over Iivaara

At morning (4th of July.) we woke because Red-flanked Bluetails was singing so loud! Amazing feeling! Soon we were already hiking on the top of Iivaara hill, but we couldn’t find any of those interesting Lapland species that other birders had seen there earlier. On the top there was “just” another Red-flanked Bluetail singing.

When carrying our luggage back to parking place those Little Buntings came to call us again. Now we decided to get some pictures. But it wasn’t easy. Finally I found the tree where another of the birds used to call, and soon I found the reason. One and half meter from the tree there was a nest with only one nestling. Now I got the pictures, because another of adults was warning all the time in same tree. But still it was too fast, so Oriol couldn’t get any pictures. While I was scoping Buntings with Oriol, Hanna and Toni saw three Siberian Jays at the parking place.

Now we had been in the most northern place of our trip and we started our way back south. Soon we saw one more Siberian Jay, later one family of Black Grouses and Capercaillies. In the evening we arrived at Lieksa Patvinsuo bog area. After some swimming we put the tent up and went to sleep.

Patvinsuo

At very early morning we hiked 4 km through huge bogs to the bird tower where was a great wet bog view. Soon we found first Crane families and also what we were searching for – Bean Goose pair. Wader species were Wood Sandpipers. Greenshanks. Green Sandpiper, Whimbrels, Golden Plovers, Ruff and finally a mating Jack Snipe. While walking back we saw a nice Black Grouse male.

After packing our tent we continued to drive south but only some kilometres, we had to have a little hike in Autiovaara forests. So we walked again four kilometres. (First Toni didn’t want to walk anymore, but when we told what birds do we had a possibility he was walking first).

We took our CD-player with us and played some Red-breasted Flycatcher on the way. There was a lot of Three-toed Woodpeckers marks on the trees but we couldn’t find any birds. Wrens, Goldcrests, Crestet Tits and so on and finally we heard a promising call. CD on and there it was: Red-breasted Flycatcher came very close us to call, and soon there was two more and totally one old male and two females/young males. Finally also Toni got lifer. These were the first birds that he saw. This bird was the most difficult bird to digiscope ever. But after half an hour trying I got three photos. Soon we realized that we were only 300 metres from the car so this really was the last opportunity to get this bird for Toni.

Some twitching on the way back

Catalans were switched of very quickly. It was difficult to wake them up when Hanna got a lifer in Nurmes. There was a Carrion Crow feeding its two hybrid fledlings. Of course I digiscoped these hybrids and their rare mother. Their father was much rarer for Oriol and Toni.

Our last stop was again in Kitee Ruppovaara. We tried to get some photos of Lanceolated Warbler. It was almost midday but I thought it is possible to find the bird when playing some CD. We got also a permit to ring the bird but North Karelian birders told us not to ring the bird. They were still fighting for two years old birds. Amazing! Well we hope someone ringed this bird after all. And hopefully he enjoyed it as much as these Catalans could have been enjoying.

Well after some CD-playing we found the bird easily. It was almost sitting over our player! It was moving very fast but I got some pictures of it. Soon we stopped bordering the bird. Oriol couldn’t get any pictures but I had promised to give him some of mine pictures later.

On the last 50km we saw only one female Hen Harrier. Finally we arrived at Parikkala. We were totally tired! After some fast-food we were able to go to sleep. And we slept long! On the North-Karelia, Kainuu and Kuusamo trip we drove 2000 km.

Some birding near Parikkala and goodbyes

6th of July we were almost just relaxing. Oriol and Toni were in Siikalahti and they saw White-backed Woodpecker which is very difficult to see in mid summer (very easy in spring). Later we tried again to caugh some Marsh Warblers but we had no luck. It was too late for this species. They were already breeding and then they are silent. At afternoon we burned our pictures, watched some Formula, rare birds in Finland 2002 -video, and Hanna’s slides from our trip to Egypt. At late evening we moved to Hanna’s parents home to have some crisps, digiscope Black-throated Divers and to sleep.

Early morning we met Hannu Siitonen (Olympic silver medallist in javelin) and he guided us to see the only Siberian Jays in Parikkala. We found the birds soon and Oriol and Toni could feed the birds from their hand. We visited also at Goshawks breeding place and we saw also a nest of Treecreeper.

On the way back to Tarvaslampi we tried to twitch Grey-headed Woodpeckers which Hannu had seen day earlier. Finally we had an answer to my whistling and we found a family of Woodpeckers from the top of a big hill. Birds were moving very fast but finally also Toni managed to see one of the birds.

Our next twitching was in Punkaharju. In Tree Park we turned the CD on and played some awful screeching. No it wasn’t heavy music; it was a call of Nutcracker. In a minute there were first Nutcrackers screeching back to us ands soon there were more than ten birds sitting on the top of Siberian Pines. Totally we saw about 20 birds and we got some pictures too even it was raining all the time.

8th of July was a digiscoping day. We had only one place to go but it was that good place that you could stay there for whole day. Of course we didn’t tell for Catalans where we were going. Only when we could see the birds Oriol and Toni knew what we were digiscping – Red-necked Divers. So we took about 200 pictures of Divers. Mother and young came to 10 metres and they didn’t care us at all – of course we were behind a hide. Father took once a big fish to its child. Oriol photographed also a family of Goldeneys. Divers didn’t like Goldeneyes at all.

At our last morning together we were again in Siikalahti. Oriol got good pictures of Thrush Nightingale. Later it started to rain very hard so we all relaxed. At midday we had sauna and we watched the rest of rare birds -video and we were talking a lot. We were all happy but also pretty tired. Soon we had to say goodbye for these friends of ours and they started their way to Helsinki by train. Oriol and Toni got 152 species in this Eastern Finland trip which is a lot in mid summer! Also they saw some other animals like mammals too. Lets see where we will meet these good friends of us next time – In Marokko, Turkey or China, let’s see?

J.A.

Norway, Varanger 18th to 21st of April 2003

Planning a trip

Already in summer of 2001 we started to plan a trip to Varanger with Ilkka. We were thinking to go next Eastern. It would be right time to see a lot of birds and also good time for us because in late April we would have to start our work again as a guide in Siikalahti. Ilkka’s parents had a caravan so it would be easy to go there with that.

We were planning a trip a lot but finally Ilkka wasn’t able to leave because he had a skiing Finnish Championships competition just in Eastern. But we didn’t forget the idea. At next winter (2003) we started to plan the trip again. Finally in spring we were sure that we can make the trip! We found also some friends to go with us.
Finland is a long country!

Our “team” was me and Hanna, my brother Pirkka, Ilkka and Kalle Larsson and Johanna Kolu. Ilkka’s trip started already at Thursday 3.20 a.m. because he was still in Jyväskylä (Middle of Finland) where he is studying. He arrived by train to Imatra about 10 a.m. He packed the caravan and started his way to Parikkala about at midday.

In Parikkala I jumped in after little biking between Health Centre and still messy home (we just moved our stuff from Oulu). My bike also broke so I had to run last two kilometres from Heath Centre to my home. But finally we started our trip to North.

Our next stop was in Joensuu, where Kalle and Johanna jumped in to a caravan. Again we spent an hour too much but we had to fool dogs that they wouldn’t understand that Kalle and Johanna were leaving. In Joensuu we made also a lot of shopping for the trip because it was an Eastern and in Norway there is nothing open then. (I have been in Alta once with Pirkka and my parents in Eastern.) Finally we could continue and Ilkka might rest a little while I started to drive.

At midnight we arrived at Rovaniemi, where Hanna was already waiting. She came there by train from Oulu where she was still doing some studies. In Rovaniemi we ate something too before we continued to drive to real Lapland.

Kalle (and Johanna) had to drive pretty much before the next happening, Pirkka jumped in at Kaamanen about 2 a.m. (On the way Kalle and Johanna saw a Capercaillie and two Willow Grouses). Pirkka had driven to Kaamanen from Enontekiö and he had been sleeping an hour in a car before we arrived there.

We reached Nuorgam (most Northern place of Finland) in early morning and I started to drive again because I wasn’t able to sleep on that curvy roads.

Birds – A LOT!

Right away after Norwegian border we started to make a list of birds we saw. First species was a Whooper Swan which we saw from Finland but the bird was in Norway. In Norway we saw first just normal birds: Magpies, Hooded Crows, Ravens, Redpolls, Great Tits and House Sparrows. Soon we saw also Greenfinches and only Brambling on the whole trip. And even we hadn’t seen any Fulmars yet, we decided not to turn back!

In early morning we arrived at Varanger and we could start real birding. It was quite amazing – In Varangerbotn there was a lot of birds! Eiders, Steller’s Eiders, King Eiders, Velvet Scoters, Red-breasted Mergansers. Also only Goosander of the trip, a lot of Herring, Common and Black-backed Gulls, some Cormorants, Shelducks and Oystercatchers were seen.

We continued doing some short stops (one Dipper, a Fox and a lot of all kind of Eiders) to Nesseby church, where we cooked the first real lunch. Close the church we were be able to photograph very well too: on the beach there were tens of Purple Sandpipers, which didn’t care at all of Hanna which was trying to get closer and me which tried to get further (birds were too close for digiscoping!). There were also nine Shellducks, two Lapwings and a Curlew. On the sea there were first Black Guillemots.

Soon we could continue forward. Before Vestre Jakobselv we found first Puffins with some Common Guillemots. In Vadsö we saw first two Black-headed Gulls and soon a beautiful old Iceland Gull. King Eider and Steller’s Eider flocks were everywhere!

In Vadsö we photographed a lot too. We got also good photos of brave Hooded Crow which is very difficult bird to photograph normally.

Eckerö Kittiwake mountain

When we arrived at Eckerö it started to rain. Kittiwakes were just sitting on the cliffs. They hadn’t started to breed yet. There were also few nice Shags. One pair of Shags started to play but light was too bad for digiscoping. Of course I took a lot of pictures of Kittiwakes which were very easy to photograph.

From Eckerö we drove stopping for a while to Vardö. On the way we saw some Common Scoters and White-tailed Eagles, two Rough-legged Buzzards, Red-throated Divers, a couple of Willow Grouses which started to laugh when they saw Ilkka’s hat.

At Vardö we arrived when it was getting dark. One Snow Finch was flying; Kittiwakes, Puffins, Guillemots, Purple Sandpipers, Cormorants and Shags were flying over the birdmountains. At the end we were too tired to do more birdwatching – also the weather has turned almost stormy – so we started to search a good place to stay overnight.

Finally we spent the night at the backyard of Vardö-hotell. We had the electric wire so it should be warm inside the car. Good Friday, in Finnish so called long Friday, had been very long!

Wind and good humour

When we woke up we noticed we hadn’t got electricity at all. So we went to ask our money back from the hotel. We also asked phone numbers if somebody could take us to birdislands by boat later. It was still 6 a.m. so we didn’t start calling for anyone, but decided to start birding.

We saw pretty northern Rock Pigeons, also we found first Glauscous Gulls of the trip, I saw some Brunnich’s Guillemots, but all other were having breakfast then. It was still stormy wind so we decided to move on to Hamningberg. Luckily the road was in very good shape, which it’s not always in this time of year.

While the views were getting more desolate and rocky all the time, we were stopping to watch to the sea for a while. There was several White-tailed Eagles, Willow Grouses, still a lot of all Eiders. But most surprising was the amount of Glauscous Gulls. There were flocks of tens, just Glauscous Gulls. They were all ages of them and it was nice to photograph them too. It was so stormy wind that digiscoping was very difficult. While I and Hanna were photographing others were just loaning against the wind. Johanna was very good in that.

Pompslottet

When we the road climbed to high place in Persfjorden we saw our first Gannets. They were flying beautifully easily on the heavy wind. Again some of us could celebrate a new World lifer.

After thin and curvy road was getting again up to the mountains we stopped to do some seawatching. We found a biggest sausage on the World! (Possible it was some kind of soft thing that a boat has on it’s side) but we had some fun with it. Kalle went to lie down over the “sausage” and Ilkka started to jump over another head of it. It was maybe the best Disneyland of whole Varanger!

Soon we arrived at Hamningberg. It’s the place where the World ends (at least the road ended). Hamningberg must be one of the most exciting places in the world to watch birds. So we were pretty fast watching the sea for the seabirds. Soon we saw tens of Gannets. On the rocky hill there was some passerine singing but we couldn’t recognize it directly. So we tried to see it, but it wasn’t easy in that rough terrain. Because we couldn’t find the bird so we spread to the area to do what ever we wanted. Hanna went to photograph Gannets. With Ilkka I started to find that bird what ever it took. At last we were too tired and I started to watch the sea and Ilkka started to sleep over the rocks laying down on his back.

Fulmars – it was about the time 😉

Even Ilkka had been talking about Fulmars the whole trip he didn’t wake up when I shouted: Fulmars! When I shouted third time Ilkka woke up. But the sprint was pretty good when Ilkka rushed to telescope to get this lifer. At same time I shouted for others about the Fulmars so loud that all two Norwegians which were there home in Eastern got scared.

Somehow Kalle couldn’t find the Fulmars even there were about thirty of them very far on the sea. Kalle decided to go to eat his fresh pasta at least little fresh and when he came back there were no Fulmars anymore. Soon Kalle found a big Diver – Yellow-billed. And now Pirkka had problems to find the right bird. Soon we realized that Pirkka was looking for right bird, at least right species, just the bird was another Yellow-billed Diver. First bird was 2 c-y bird and another adult in winter plumage. When watching Divers there landed one Brunnich’s Guillemot quite close the Divers. So almost all of us got at least one lifer some got even two.

But still everyone wasn’t happy! Kalle had still Fulmar lacking. Kalle was decided to show himself a Fulmar what ever it costs. I tried to help Kalle, but Fulmars were maybe somewhere where was still more stormy. Finally Kalle saw it – Fulmar flew pretty close filling almost whole scope! Kalle was very happy (You should have seen him celebrating!) Soon there came more Fulmars gliding up and down over the waves.

Again different kind of Diver

When watching Fulmars Kalle found again another Diver. Soon I saw the bird too and (Yeah – finally a lifer for me too) it was Great Northern Diver – old bird in winter plumage. We couldn’t see others so first I tried to shout and then call them but phone weren’t working there. So I had to go to find others. I found Hanna soon but surprisingly I found Ilkka and Pirkka inside the caravan.

They were making the Kinder toys! Points for them! I really think that is the second best thing to do when you are in Hamningberg (where is all the time good new birds) in Eastern! Pirkka told he had been telling Ilkka that: “I feel, that now we will miss something”. Luckily we could still see the Diver; even it was diving amazingly long distances. Kalle had seen the Great Northern Diver once with those Yellow-billed Divers together in same picture!

No we were all happy! We had seen everything possible in Hamningberg. That one singing passerine was also seen, it was only Snow Finch. It’s always same thing when you hear a singing Snow Finch. Also we saw one Red-necked Diver ant three migrating Greylag Geese. After all we had to begin our way back.

Closer by boat

Now we started our trip back. The way from Hamningberg to Vardö seemed even more dangerous when coming back. Edges seemed to be even closer the road then.

20 kilometres before Vardö we started to call for the boat to Hornöya birdisland. Ilkka was speaking Swedish on the phone – even thinking of that sounds funny) but he could arrange us a boat for the same evening!

Soon we were sitting on the boat and going fast towards the islands. On the way we saw Black Guillemots and Shags. But even there weren’t a lot of birds on the cliffs, the experience was something new for us all! Common and Brunnich’s Guillemots, Puffins, Razorbills, Common Guillemots, Shags and Kittiwakes… were A LOT! All of us learned how to make a difference between Guillemots and it was great to see these birds closer than ever. Of course it was a disappointment that we couldn’t land the island because it’s forbidden before the summer. The weather can change so fast that it’s possible that you can’t get away from island.

When back in harbour, all our group was very happy. Nobody expected anything like this to happen on this trip. Whole day had amazing!

After little wondering we decided to drive a little more. Finally we stopped to have some sleep to one kind of parking place between Vardö and Vadsö. And it really wasn’t difficult to fall in sleep.

Eastern

Eastern day was again very windy, and surprisingly we had to watch almost empty sea. There were some Common Scoters and Red-throated Divers but almost no Eiders at all. They had started to go to breeding areas.

This time we climbed up to the Eckerö Kittiwake mountain. Kittiwakes weren’t sitting on the cliffs but swimming down on the sea. Even I have started to afraid of highs I managed to digiscope some sitting Kittiwakes. I was already coming down with Pirkka when rest of us where just climbing up. Hanna photographed flying White-tailed Eagles, while other were playing with their lives on the edge.

We found a singing Pipit down near the caravan. A Rock Pipit of course. I called Ilkka which came very fast down climbing more dangerous ways than Hanna, Kalle and Johanna. But it was a lifer for Ilkka (again). Pipit was sitting on the rocks and for a while it started to sing while flying. Ilkka and Kalle told that they had already seen one possible Rock Pipit up there but now they hadn’t have to worry about that anymore. Soon we had to move on again, we had still a lot to do for the rest of the day!

To Gyrfalcon edge

From Vadsö we found the same Iceland Gull again. Soon we found another Iceland Gull flying close this first bird, this time 3 cy bird. They were so nice if you compare to Glauscous Gulls which are pretty ugly. I managed to get some pictures of both birds. We saw also maybe the same two Black-headed Gulls again.

At Nesseby church there was just Eastern church ending, and it was funny to see people coming out of that beautiful church wearing those traditional Sami (Lappish)-dresses. We tried to see the church inside but there was still christening going on and after that the pastor was too hurry to christening parties so he locked the door just in front of us. Twite which was sitting on the wire just close the church made us happy again. But it left too fast so I couldn’t take any photos of it.

Next we went to try to find Gyrfalcons from the cliff that Finnature had told us. On the way we saw a Hawk Owl sitting on the wire. It was very nice to digiscope because of the perfect light! The Owl had something interesting on the snow under it because it was listening under it very hard. We couldn’t find a Gyr which was disappointment for us all. We tried very hard and had our necks hurt. But the place was very nice even without Falcons. We heard later that the Gyrfalcons were breeding there, somehow we just couldn’t find them.

We visited still in Teno rivers delta. There was quite a lot of Long-tailed Ducks, more than in any place earlier. The place itself was also something amazing! I’m sure there can be a lot of birds at least in autumn when waders are migrating.

On the way back home

Then started a long way back home! Ilkka had been driving all the time in Norway and continued still driving. In Teno river in Finland there was some Common and Herring Gulls but no more Kittiwakes (of course). Almost nothing happened on our way for long time. Someone was just saying every hour how good trip we had had!
It was already late night when we dropped Pirkka to Kaamanen. Rest of us continued still driving more South. We stayed overnight on the top of Kaunispää fell.

After a good and pretty long night we walked little over Kaunispää, but there was foggy and rainy so we couldn`t see anything better. Others went back to sleep, but I started to drive and Hanna came to keep me awake. On the way we saw three Siberian Jays and one male Capercaillie in Sodankylä. On Porttipahta dam we saw Black-backed Gulls, which is rare there. Then we drove directly to Rovaniemi.

At Rovaniemi Hanna missed her train for 10 minutes, so we decided to cook something to eat. Out cooking place was Rovaniemi city’s bus station and we were cooking some sausages!

Final

We continued driving pretty fast. Only happenings were some sort of lunch in Valtimo and a ticket that police gave to Kalle for speeding somewhere in Juuka. SHIT! That was the only kickback for the trip. We wouldn’t have needed any.

In Joensuu we cleaned our caravan together. It was pretty messy! And of course we dropped Kalle and Johanna back home. Ilkka wanted to visit at her ex-girlfriend too. I think he just said: “Hello, guess where I’m coming from? See you!” At least it didn’t take long. Then we bought some hamburgers from McDonalds (BIG Big Macs) and continued our way.

Our final stop was surprise, surprise – Siikalahti, where we tried to hear the first Crakes for the year and eat some mämmi (traditional Finnish Eastern food which looks like shit but tastes good). Well, we couldn’t do either of them: there was no Crakes (Siikalahti was still totally frozen) and mämmi was also frozen (some idiot had put it to freezer). So we went to eat some mämmi to our home. Then Ilkka had still 50km to drive to Imatra. In the end there was 3300km on the meter. We had amazing trip! That’s all I can say!

J.A.

Egypt 19th of February to 6th of March 2002

Planning the trip

We started to plan our trip to Egypt about half an year beforehand. First we were just checking information from internet by reading tripreports and checking different sites. Later we took contact to some Egyptian birders and to birders who had been birding there. We got a lot of information about birding and about everything we needed to know pretty easily!

We (me and Hanna) were very happy that our old friend from Catalonia was joining us. Our plans were to have such a trip that we could see as many (GOOD) birdspecies as possible and also as many beautiful places as possible. We decided to stay two weeks on our trip so it was possible to move a lot. Ofcourse we were thinking to save as much money as possible, so we were thinking to use just local transportation: buses, trains and taxis. And we decided to live in cheap hotels.
When we left (19th of April) we hadn’t got any exact plans, only (bird)places where we had to go. I had made some different kind of plans how to move there in Egypt, so we could check how many days we could spent in different places. Finally we choose one plan which didn’t include visiting in Sinai (because Oriol had been there earlier) but our way reached South close to Sudan border to Abu Simbel. When we left we hadn’t got anything else arranged than tickets to Egypt and back to Finland. Both ways we had a 10 hours stop in Hungary Budapest.

Finally we saw 184 species (160 in Egypt and rest in Hungary). The trip was amazing! We hadn’t got BIG problems, no-one even got sick! We also saw all the most important birds and views were something amazing! But I won’t tell too much now, let the story begin.

Landing to Budapest 19.2.

About 11 a.m. (local time) our Malev-plane landed to Budapest airport. Our way to Egypt was at half. But now we had 10 hours to see Budapest before at night we should continue to Cairo.

Even we took a wrong buss from the airport and we hade some problems to find the city right away, we managed to see Budapest pretty well. We had enough time to see some beautiful places and also some nice birds: Cormorants, 2 Peregrines and some other species we wouldn’t see in next two weeks.

To Cairo

4 a.m. (again local time) we landed at Cairo airport. First we had to find visas. After little searching we found a small table where was a man putting little stamps to peoples passports of course against some money. We couldn’t see it anyhow but we guessed that was the place to get visas. We took the visa to whole Egypt (also Sinai) and we were able to seek our luggage. It was awful! People were walking over the luggage; they were pushing each others and acting like crazy. Finally we could find our bags and we were happy we had all expensive equipments (binos, scopes, cameras) with us in plane.

After the chaos we had to find our friend Oriol. There was about 1000 other people trying to find each others. After five text messages we realized Oriol was in different airport! So he took a taxi and after ten minutes (and 40 offered taxis) we found each others. It was so nice to see Oriol after one and half year again.

We told the driver to drive to hotel which we had chosen from our Let’s go -book. Driver tried to talk us around to another hotel, but we kept our head. One reason was he didn’t know the way to hotel and he could have got his own payment from his hotel. Our hotel was unfortunately full but friendly owner told us to go to hotel behind the corner and she helped us to get rid of the driver. Anyway the driver managed to get twice too much money from us (50 E£ = 12,5 €). On our way we had our first sighted animal which was some weasel kind of animal.

After all we carried our luggage to Pension Roma hotel to fourth floor, were we got nice room for four and even the price was the same than in our book (18 €). Soon we were sleeping, we had been travelling already more than day and Oriol had changed plane in Amsterdam!

Tourist day 20th of April

After some hours sleeping we woke up because Pallid Swifts were screaming outside the window. At hotels background there were many Rock Doves and Palm Doves. Soon we were getting the taxi to Giza pyramids. On the way close the Nile River we saw many Pied Kingfishers, Common Bulbuls, Hoopoes and Cattle Egrets. After twenty minutes drive we could see the pyramids! It was really something!!

We were there watching the pyramids but of course we tried to see birds too. Red-tailed Wheatear should be there almost every winter. But we couldn’t find any. But Blue Rock Thrush and savignii-Swallows were nice too. There was nice because there wasn’t many tourists. Also local “businessmen” were pretty easy to handle – they understood the word no. The cost to pyramids was 2,5/1,25 € which was normal price also to other cultural places later.

After some hours we continued our tourist day to Egyptian museum. We decided to walk there from our hotel, which was not that easy. Traffic was something really crazy! They don’t have any lines, no matter if the light is red, only if there is a police standing on the road they stop. And if taxi driver can see you he makes himself heard with horn – and there is a lot of taxis! I went crazy in five minutes! Only way to cross the road was to walk using a local as a shield. One tourist cheater helped us to find the museum, but we just promised to call him if we’ll need him later. Come on, we were not that stupid! But we got a funny card to our collection again.
In Egyptian museum we were wondering some hours the old cultural stuff with Tutankhamon coffins and masks. The place was really worth of visiting! If culture is nothing for birder he can try to find different bird species from hieroglyphs and carvings. There were pretty many birds.

At the afternoon we walked in Zamalek parks close the Cairo tower. We found some Ring-necked Parakeets and also Song Thrush which was little surprise.
At night we met Tom Collins which I had taken contact by e-mail earlier. Unfortunately he had been just two months in Hawaii (at home) and he didn’t had much to tell us, but he knew very good driver for us! The driver was a former English teacher and he had been a driver for Tom for 12 years, so he really knew the birding places! That was very good for us!

Abbassa 21th of February

Second Egypt day we woke up early, 5 o’clock and we met our taxi driver Gamal about 6 o’clock. We took our luggage and started our way to Abbassa. I had red a lot about Abbassa and we were very keen to get there. Abbassa is 70 km North-East from Cairo and its green area with reeds and rice fields.

On the way we saw a flock of 400 Black Kites, tens of Crested Larks… It was easy to notice when the bird places started! Another side of the road there was a water canal and another side a lot of different kind of green plants. There were also some fish pools with a lot of Squacco Herons, Little Egrets and Grey Herons. First White-breasted Kingfishers were flying over the water areas and much more Pied Kingfishers. On the beach of canal there was a lot of Spur-winged Plovers and four Senegal Thick-knees. Graceful Prinias ja Fan-tailed Warblers were “singing” and soon we found first Clamorous Reed Warblers. There were also normal Kingfishers. Passerines were Meadow, Red-breasted and Water Pipits, Spanish Sparrows, Hoopes and Common Bulbuls. We found also some raptors: two Lesser Spotted Eagles, Marsh Harriers, Kestlers and six Black-shouldered Kites! Red Avadavat, Streaked Weaver, Painted Snipe and Kittlitz’s Plover could have been also possible on the area. But we did find the best one – Senegal Coucal, which was amazing! It was eating very big hairy worms and we could photograph it.

But rest of the birds we couldn’t find. Biggest reason was that some locals weren’t very friendly and wanted us away from one very good looking place. In some places rubber boots would have been needed. And maybe we weren’t brave enough – not yet.

We continued towards 10th Ramadan City’s Painted Snipe and Kittlitz’s Plover places, but the places were too close the army area, so we weren’t able to get there safely. And Painted Snipe place was destroyed. What a pity! We had to decide what to do next. We continued to Suez city because we really wanted to see new places and new birds. On the way we saw some African Green Bee-eaters and aucheri- Great Grey Shrike. Also we saw nice Hoopoe Lark and a big flock of Thick-knees flying on a desert.

In Suez there was a lot of House Crows. Now we rented a room for three (totally 30 £E = 7.5 €). It was really only a room with beds, but where did we needed anything more. We weren’t in Egypt just sleeping. Gamal wanted to drive to his home (to Cairo) to sleep (100km), but he promised to be back in early morning.

Before the dawn we had a little walk to gardens and beaches (ticket to gardens was 10 cents). There we found of course House Crows but also Hoopoes, House Sparrows, cyanecula- Bluethroats, Graceful Prinias and one Wryneck. We also saw Gulls flying to sleeping places: alot of Caspian Gulls but also Armenian Gulls.

Next day Islam’s had a big “meet Christmas” like Gamal said. There was a cow hanging in our hotel corridor too and all blood was on the road. Pretty interesting! When we got back to hotel we were extremely tired. Even very very loud prayers couldn’t disturb our sleep.

South from Suez 22th of February

At morning we started our way to Wadi El Hagul but when we reached it, we noticed it was totally dry. There were only some Chiffchaffs and Lesser White-throats. Also we saw some flocks of Brown-necked Raves and a pair of Trumpeter Finches. Soon we found also some Steppe Eagles which were sitting on the top of small hills. Some wadis offered just some Hoopoe Larks and Sardinian Warblers etc. One nice Short-toed Eagle was also migrating just over us. One farming area offered a lot of birds: Desert, Eastern Black-eared and normal Wheatears, Song Thrushes, Redwing, Robin and Dunnock which we thought they are not normal this South. But Sylvia Warblers were difficult ones. Ofcourse we found many Lesser White-throats and Sardinian Warblers, but finally we found one more interesting Warbler. We tried to see it enough well more than half an hour and finally we saw it well enough – Menetries’s Warbler! When hunting this bird we found also one Reed and one Sedge Warbler.

At midday we reached Ain Sukhna migration place. We were ofcourse one or two weeks too early to see raptor migration, but there were also local birds. White-crowned Black Wheatear, Great Black-headed Gulls, White-eyed Gulls and some fossils for Hanna. Soon we continued to get in to one hotel area which was said to be good for gulls etc. Unfortunately the hotel was closed. But we managed to get in to next hotel with guards (which wasn’t that good but pretty nice). We found tens of White-eyed, Armenian, Lesser Black-backed and Caspian Gulls sitting on the balconies and pipes. Three Sandwich and three Crested Terns too! First African Rock Martins were flying over the garden.

Soon we had to decide what to do next. Gamal told there were buses going to Hurghada often and soon we were waiting the bus on a buss stop. And our way to Hurghada begun and we were just in the schedule! Buss cost 24 £E/person (6 €).

About 2-3 p.m. we arrived at Hurghada buss station, and we took the taxi to our hotel Sea Waves. Hotel was pretty awful, but we were too tired to think about that. We didn’t even argue about the price even it was three times more than our book told it should be (first they asked 6 times more!). Remember they are not cheating – you are just stupid if you pay, it is just business!). We were just too tired!

Hurghada 23th of April

Six a.m. we were already walking towards the local beaches, which we thought to be easy to find. But it wasn`t. All the beaches belonged to hotels, or they were military areas. Finally we found a free beach to go. It was in bad condition but we could have some seawatching. Some White-eyed Gulls, Caspian Terns, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Ringed Plovers, Kentish Plover, but nothing else was seen. We continued walking for many kilometres but we couldn’t find any other free beaches. So we decided to ask if we can get in to hotel gardens to find passerines. That finer hotel that easier it was to get in – we weren’t the first birders doing that I think? But not many birds – only better was Eastern Subalpine Warbler and from the beaches we saw first Sooty Gulls and also some Ospreys.

Hurghada is just two 30 km long roads with hundreds of hotels. Most of the hotels were empty or not completely built. It was very messy, lot of rubbish everywhere. Not very nice! But normal tourist is just in beautiful hotel garden and is not getting out anywhere else than to the Red Sea.

We found the best looking birding place on the background of local hospital. There was a wastewater place with some reeds and awful smell. There was a lot of Sylvia Warblers (common ones), Sedge Warblers, Collared Doves with Palm Doves and Rock Doves. Later we walked to local harbour and we found nice captain who offered us a boat to rent. He was such a good guy that we rented his boat for one and half days starting next day. We were planning to see some seabirds on the bird islands north from Hurghada.

When we had walked too much we took the taxi and went to Hurghada rubbish tip, which we had heard to be good place for birding. About tenth driver knew the way there. Rubbish tip was really good place. There was a lake with a lot of ducks and waders. Marsh Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilts, Kentish Plovers, Little Ringed Plovers, Dunlins, Little Stints, Ruff, Lapwing… Coots, Shovelers, Wigeon and Pintail. Gulls were mostly Caspian Gulls but there was also big flock of White-eyed Gulls. There was amazing amount of Pied Wagtails – thousands! Some Steppe Eagles and Brown-necked Ravens were sitting on the top of the rubbish hills. Wheatears were mostly common ones but we found also one Isabelline Wheatear.

Next we continued to one farm that our driver told to be good place for birds. But now it was afternoon so there were no birds from mountains. In early morning it would have been a perfect place. Later we drove the costal road from north back to our hotel. On the way we saw some Slender-billed Gulls.

At late evening we had some seawatching on the closest beach of hotel and we found one Brown Booby!

Second Hurghada morning (24th of April) we walked again the beaches and trying to find a taxi driver which was awake. We wanted to get to El Gouna 30 km north from Hurghada. Finally found one driver and we took him even he couldn’t speak any English. The price was 30 € for whole morning.

On the way we saw a flock of 30 Crowned Sandgrouses. At Sheraton hotel beaches we found Western Reef Heron. From the bushes we found Chiffchaffs, Bluethroats, Sedge Warblers, Sardinian Warblers, Eastern Subalpine Warbler and Savi’s Warbler. It was too windy to find good birds from Golf resort, only some Wheatears. We saw also first Knots, and with savignii- Swallows there was some African Rock Martins and one European Red-rumped Swallow.

After all we had still time before our boat trip so we decided to go to rubbish tip which was almost on the way. Our driver didn’t know the way but we knew already so we told him where to go. There was pretty much same birds than day before: three Shelducks also. When we were leaving we saw a flock of flying Bar-tailed Desert Larks.

Problems!

It was almost 11 a.m. when we went to our taxi in rubbish tip and started our way back to Hurghada. But after 200 meters there was a police motorbikes on the way, and they stopped us. Soon we understood something was badly wrong! Another of those aggressive policemen spoke some English so we understood the rubbish tip was forbidden area to go. But he didn’t tell us anything more. They were just shouting Arabic for our driver who was really scared. Soon policemen let us go and we were very happy. But our driver was just saying problems, problems all the time. Soon he stopped one car and he took a guy who spoke English to tell us that he was really in problems. So we decided to go with a driver to police station where he was told to go. It was only our fault that we had been in rubbish tip. Our driver hadn’t even knew the way there.

At police station Hanna left to taxi with all our cameras and that kind of stuff. (I am now telling everything that happened ten times faster than anything happened because you would get bored!) After one hour policemen took our driver somewhere and we were still sitting on a sofa they told us to wait. After two hours some sort of policeman asked us to his office where was all kind of other people all the time running, but no-one was speaking us a word! Actually we had already noticed that no-one was speaking any English.

Our appointment with our boat captain was very close but we were still waiting something to happen. Finally we noticed that they started to think about our problem. Soon some kind of police chief started to speak to us with those ten English words he knew. Next hour we had to tell for him and all other people who visited that room that we were just birders and our telescopes weren’t cameras! Next he took my birdbook and again we had to tell ten times we were birders…

Two hours later we realized that police thought we were some kind of journalists who were trying to photograph ugly places (like rubbish tip) so there wouldn’t be so many tourists in Egypt. I can only say those policemen were most stupid officers I have ever seen in my life! They also told us that we had been photographing an army area which we hadn’t even seen. And also they told that our taxi driver was in big troubles!

When we had been in station for five hours they found an officer who was speaking English! All of us (also Hanna) told to go to the head police chef and now we started to solve our problem really. Now they were even hearing what we said! They were taking all our films but we somehow managed to tell them we had been photographing only birds and views. We also told that we weren’t interested of photographing rubbish tip or any military areas because we thought neither Finland nor Spain army weren’t interested about those pictures. Finally the chief let us go but he told us to come back next afternoon to get our passports which he took himself. They also let our driver go, but he would have to come with us next day. Our driver had lost his driving licence and he might get it back next day.

Free at last!

We were happy of course to get out after six hours. But we had lost almost whole day at Red Sea with our rented boat. At harbour we found our captain and an hour before sunset we started our way to the sea. We had to check all our plans because we hadn’t much time because we would have to be in police station at next afternoon. So we decided to stay at night on the Sea near the closest island. Next day we would have time to check all the closest islands but we wouldn’t be able to go to the most interesting bird islands at all. The boat was big, 18 meters, and there were also two boys as a crew with captain Ibrahim. There were five rooms so there was enough space for us three birders!

Soon we reached the closest Abu Mingar island where was three white and one grey Western Reef Herons. On the reefs there were also two Spoonbills, Grey Heron, Curlews and of course White-eyed and Sooty Gulls with Slender-billed, Caspian Gulls, Caspian Terns and Crested Tern. We saw also one Lesser Kestrel and Hen Harrier flying. After sunset Ibrahin told us interesting stories about diving and other life on the Red Sea and finally we got something to eat too! We hadn’t ate anything in whole day! Those two guys cooked filled Egyptian sandwiches and Egyptian tea – very good indeed!

On the Red Sea waves 25th of April

At early morning we were already waiting the sunrise. Birds of Abu Mingar Island were almost the same than at evening. Soon we woke up the crew and we continued to next islands. We found some nesting Ospreys, a lot of White-eyed Gulls but we couldn’t find any terns that we expected. We found just some Caspian Terns, gulls and one Brown Booby which was flying very far. Rocky islands had some Western Reef Herons and some waders, for example one Grey Plover. We saw also one flock of fishes which were almost flying. Unfortunately the weather was pretty cold and windy so we couldn’t see that many underwater sealife. We could only see some dark reefs and pale sand under nice blue water.

At Giftun Saghira island we found a falco flying. Telescopes up and – Barbary Falcon was recognized, even it was pretty difficult from the boat. Soon our captain stopped the boat close to one big reef and the crew started to fish. We had an opportunity to have some diving. Our captain even helped me and Hanna to see some sealife because we are really bad swimmers. Oriol was diving a lot more. We could see hundreds of colourful fishes in many many flocks. It was really amazing!

Soon we continued our way again. We also bought some more fishes from one fishing boat and boys started to cook us a dinner. After the dinner we concentrated to photograph gulls. We threw some pieces of fish for them so they started to fly behind the boat. Mostly there was White-eyed Gulls but also some Sooty Gulls.
F**K not again!!!

Three p.m. our boat trip was at the end. And we had to hurry to get to police station with our taxi driver. We parked our boat to harbour and started to carry our luggage out when it happened again. Police was there waiting for us and they wanted to search our luggage. So they emptied all our bags and they took all our films away and even all fossils and shells that Hanna had found. And again we had to start to wait for some police officer to come. That was too much for me! I told in all languages I can speak for all those police what I was thinking about them. I think Finnish and Swedish didn’t help a lot, but I think they understood that I didn’t like them a lot! Soon they left us to the boat to wait and policemen and our captain went to one building.

After one and half hour we understood this was whole new police. This had nothing to do with our earlier problems with police. This time we were arrested by sea police! And now we were already late from our appointment with other police. After three hours one policeman told us in English that we had been photographing army areas (again). And everything that we had gone through the day before started again.

Finally after four hours we were free to go, I think they finally understood (thanks to our captain) that we had been photographing just gulls. We got even all our stuffs back (even shells and fossils because we told them we had bought them – it’s not aloud to collect them). While waiting we had seen some Great Black-headed Gulls flying over us, but that didn’t make us very happy. We had still a lot of problems. Our taxi driver was still there waiting for us because he had told to get us to police station.

At police station we heard that the chief wasn’t at work anymore so we would have to wait at least four hours before he comes back. Then I lost my mind – I was shouting for policemen who had machineguns – very wise, because they couldn’t understand a word! But it really helped! Soon someone took our passes and even the licence for the driver. I really think they liked my attitude! But now we were happy, we could continue our trip and get as fast as possible far from Hurghada – maybe the most horrible place on Earth!

At bus station it was as difficult as always. There was no signs where the buses where going. People were just running to buses to ask if that was the right one. So we had to act like local people to get to right bus. When the right one came one of us had to run to bus and take seats for us three while other two of us were packing our luggage down. And if you won’t get a seat you have to wait for next one – which means you have to wait for next day! Actually this time the right bus never came! After one hour waiting they just took one bus somewhere and our trip to Luxor started.

To Luxor 26th of February

Tired, but happy that we weren’t in Hurghada anymore, we fell in sleep in the buss. About 4 a.m. we woke up at Luxor where we had again familiar routines. We decided to walk to hotel we had chosen. At Venus hotel we got a room which cost 40 Egyptian pounds (10 Euros). We took the room for two nights.

After two hours sleeping we left to famous Valley of Deaths. We had arranged at hotel a motorboat (1€) which took us to the other side of Nile river. And there was already taxi driver waiting for us! Driver cost 8.5 Euros for four hours. Now when we were again close the Nile there was much more birds again than in Hurghada.

In rocky Valley wasn’t many birds. But the views were gorgeous. It wasn’t aloud to get tripods to historic places. At least it would have been expensive. They thought if you have a tripod you are professional photographer. And now there was a falcon couple flying over the Valley but we couldn’t recognize them with only binos. We saw also beautiful Blue Rock Thrush, many Pallid Swifts and Trumpeter Finches which were calling very funny trumpet voices! It was funny because normal tourists didn’t notice those Finches at all even they were calling loudly under one meter from people. In Valley of Queens we found more Trumpeter Finches and two Desert Larks. Some of the Finches were extremely red; they had been bathing in reddish sand over the hills to make themselves more attractive!

When we were driving back we found two Long-legged Buzzards soaring, one was grey and another pale morph. Because we still had some time with our driver left we jumped out and had a little walk in green fields. And there were a lot of birds: African Green Bee-eaters, Turtle Doves, Nubian Shrikes, Black-shouldered Kite and Lesser Kestrel. From one canal I found the first Green-backed Heron too.

After little relaxing at hotel we continued to Karnak Temple. And they were absolutely fabulous. At afternoon we still were able to have a little walk to the Nile and to gardens. Soon we found what we were searching for Nile-valley Sun Birds. They were in first tree we checked. There was very nice male too.

Crocodile Island 27th of April

Second Luxor morning we started again very early. We took a taxi to the Crocodile Island. Most of the island belongs to hotel Mövenpick, but our driver and some areas guards helped us to get to the island without any fees and any other happenings. Rest of the island is wet and green farming land. First in the morning we tried to find a local birdguide Abdul Yossef, which we thought to know where to find Painted Snipe, White-tailed Plover and Red Avadavat. We found Abdul pretty soon and he came to lead our trip. He rowed us by boat to some places where you can’t go either. There was very very much birds everywhere! Pied Kingfishers about a hundred, some hundreds Cattle Egrets and savignii- Swallows, Pallid Swifts and different races of Yellow Wagtails (also endemic ones), Common Bulbuls, Red-throated Pipits, Moorhens and waders for example 20 Senegal Thick-knees. Only new species for our trip were Swift, African Swamphen, Purple Heron, Whiskered Tern and Red Avadavat, which was very common. But anyway our guide was a BIG disappointment!! He didn’t know the birds and we found all birds before him and he couldn’t find any birds for us which we wouldn’t have found by ourselves. And he was really expensive! We never paid for him that much than he asked but anyway he got more than real pro-birdguide gets in same time in Finland. Crocodile Island is enough small to walk around and moving there is free everywhere else than in hotel yard. Birdplaces are also easy to find and recognize. And there is a lot of birds! So you really don’t need a guide there!

So we continued birding when we got rid of our “guide”. Our goal was to find Painted Snipe. It was the most interesting bird for us in whole trip! I had promised to myself that I won’t leave the country before I can see Painted Snipe. And Oriol was told that our trip will be bad if we can’t find it. So we walked a lot in wet places! But we found only Snipes and one Little Bittern. And of course a lot of African Green Bee-eaters, Nile-valley Sunbirds, Graceful Prinias, Fan-tailed Warblers, Bluethroats, Nubian Shrikes, two Goldfinches and more than 200 Red Avadavats, but no Painted Snipe or White-tailed Plover! At late evening we got back to our hotel very tired and little disappointed.

At night we ate a good lunch (Hanna ate double chicken and I and Oriol took first kebab and then pizzas as a dessert. And at night we took the bus to Assuan.

Assuan 28th of April

Before the sunrise we booked in to El Salaam hotel. Right away we were asking a felucca for us for early morning. Amazingly they could arrange that for us. And after two slept hours we were at Nile in big felucca boat. Because we were first boat moving we could find a lot of birds. Night Herons and Glossy Ibis. We saw also a dark falcon but we couldn’t see that well enough, so it was Red-footed, Eleonora’s or Sooty Falcon. Waders had also Black-tailed Godwits and terns included Gull-billed, Black, Whiskered, White-winged and Common Terns. Also Spur-winged Plovers, African Swamphens, Black-winged Stints, Cormorants and of course Egrets. But most surprisingly we saw a Black Stork soaring over the palm forest.

After two hours felucca boating we arrived at Kitcheners Island which is a beautiful garden island. Hundreds of Cattle Egrets were shouting us welcome with their strange Donald Duck voices. From the bushes we found many passerines mostly Lesser Whitethroats and Chiffchaffs. We could just imagine what birds there really were! We were in a little hurry but we found also Nile-valley Sunbirds, Common Bulbuls, some Olivaceous Warblers were also singing beautifully on the trees. The song was something between Booted and Reed Warblers.

At day we took a taxi to Assuan dam which was about 20 minutes drive from the city. The dam was of course big but didn’t offer much more. Another side of the dam was Nile River and another side started Nasser lake. Of course it was not aloud to use telescope there so it was impossible to see all ducks swimming under the dam. But we could recognize Tufted Duck as a trip tick. Another tick was Crag Martin. The dam was highly guarded, because if the dam would brake most of Egyptians might die or lose their homes.

The dam didn’t take much time so we decided to stop our taxi near the old dam too. There was nice view and even a balcony where to watch it. We were wondering why driver promised us just a minute and no telescopes. After two minutes we found a flock of Egyptian Geese and then it happened again. Policeman came to shout for us. He told us to sit to one bench and wait. But thanks to our driver he spoke some Arabic for police and we were free to go. It was close again!

Late evening we climbed to our hotels roof to watch some birds and Assuans nightlife. There was a nice Nile view and a lot of Yellow Wagtails, Sand Martins and Swallows were migrating. When the sun set Oriol started to watch by telescope to the other side of the river to one hill which had lights. And surprisingly he found there a bird! Soon we were all watching the lights. I found the bird flying up and down on the lights with risen wings. Even the bird was pretty far I could say that was Egyptian Nightjar. We could see the birds shortly but later we could find just some foxes.

At night we ordered a trip to Abu Simbel which is the most southern place were we could go. Our hotel ordered us places to a minibus. The buses are driving there together and police is leading the convoy. Another way to get Abu Simbel is flyway. But normally you can stay in Abu Simbel just for couple of hours which of course wasn’t enough for us. We had a lot African species to found: African Wagtail, Kittlitz`s Plover, African Pelican… So we arranged that we can stay a night there and in next convoy there is a minibus with three empty places for us. Of course we had to pay double price (30 €). Another problem was to find a hotel. There are just two very expensive hotels in Abu Simbel. But we weren’t able to pay 100 € for one night per person. We had heard rumours that there could be one more hotel for local people and we decided to try, but even Assuan tourist centre couldn’t tell us anything about other hotels.

In convoy 1st of March

Four a clock at morning our bus stopped to southern end of Assuan and there were more than 50 buses more. Next three hours we drove in a convoy 140 km/h with other buses in the middle of the desert. It was good it was still dark outside; we could still sleep in car. There was just one police car driving in front of the convoy. And the convoy was at least 10 km long. We were thinking that this kind of convoy was much easier for terrorists to attack than just normal traffic.

Soon the sun rose and we tried to see some desert birds from the car, but it was driving little too fast. 70 km before Abu Simbel we saw a flock of Pelicans sitting in the middle of the desert but the car was just driving it was not aloud to stop the car. But maybe one kilometre later one man in our car asked the driver to stop, he said he MUST go to pee. The driver wouldn’t have liked to stop but the man forced him to. We tried to see if we could see the Pelicans still but they were too far. But there was White-crowned Black Wheatear jumping near the road. The man jumped out the car ant went to pee, but surprisingly he started to walk to desert. The driver shouted him to come back, but the man was just continuing to desert. Driver shouted him again but this guy just showed his middle finger and soon he disappeared to desert. Amazing! He had just camera and some book with him. We would have liked to go after him to place where the Pelicans were but, but we had to continue our way to Abu Simbel. Next day we heard that the man was still missing! Quite a mystery! Maybe he was an extreme ornithologist or then he was going to join to terrorist school to desert?

Abu Simbel

We got out of the cars in Abu Simbel temples parking place. We didn’t of course go to temple but we went to Nefertari hotel (another expensive hotel, which didn’t look nothing special out) and its backyard where opens nice view to Lake Nasser. Before we got there we heard some Olivaceous Warblers and Turtle Doves singing. We also found out that there was a massive Cormarant migration going on. It was almost one big flock which just continued and continued. When we reached the beach the migration was getting slower, but we counted more than 4000 Cormorants anyway.

We knew what to search for. And after some minutes Oriol found pair of African Wagtails walking on a small rocky island. Male started to sing soon. We saw also White-crowned Black Wheatears, some White Pelicans and Egyptian Geese. Later we saw a huge Sand Martin and Shoveler migration.

Next we went to Nefertari hotel to “ask prices” read: to ask how you can actually move in Abu Simbel area. We had heard rumours that it’s not possibly to move anywhere. They even told us about cheaper motel. And we met a police who was something really different than our earlier policemen! When we told him about the places where we would like to go, he ordered us a taxi and told to driver where we wanted to go! And he also contacted other polices by phone that we were going to bird in those areas!

We drove to find some African specialists to the beach of Lake Nasser behind the airport. First our driver wanted to show us a good birding place, a harbour. It looked good but no rarities this time, just four White Pelicans. Later we found many Wheatears, 20 Desert and White-crowned Black Wheatears, many Common ones and some Eastern Black-eared Wheatears. At bay we found many Egyptian Geese, and on the lake there was amazing amount of Chlidonias Terns, about 10000! All three species. But we weren’t that interested about them anymore because we found first Kittlitz’s Plovers. It was very nice bird and totally we found seven of them. There was also other waders like Little Stints and some Temminck’s Stints.

We still hoped to find African Pelican and Red-billed Stork so we continued further to El Baterik bay. The place seemed perfect but there was just some Spoonbills and four more Kittlitz’s Plovers. The views were beautiful: yellow sand everywhere and almost black pyramid like hills. Our driver didn’t let us go any further so we started our way back to village and to find our hotel.

We found our hotel soon and we got two rooms for two easily. The hotel keeper spoke just Arabic so it was impossible to hassle the price down, but it was still six times cheaper than Nefertari (anyway it was six times more expensive than our normal hotels before). Normally the hotel was just for locals and mainly for soldiers. Now we could go to see the Abu Simbel temples and they were wonderful. And now there were no other tourists at all! We could photograph the temples so that there were no people in pictures at all. I really think Abu Simbel temples were the most beautiful place we had seen in our trip! So we spent some time just wondering the temple inside and outside.

At afternoon we realized our hotel was in very good place to have some migration watching. There was a big hill on its garden. From the hill there was good view to the lake. Shovelers, Cormorants and Sand Martins were still migrating a lot. We saw also Barbary Falcon, Squacko Herons, Little Egrets and Grey Herons, Yellow-billed Kites were soaring up the sky and also African Rock Martins and White-crowned Black Wheatears were seen. At night Wheatears started to sing. Four Night Herons, some Pallid Swifts, some Egyptian Geese and Black-winged Stilts were also found. Very nice, we could really relax.

Kalabush=Jail 2nd of March

Early morning we weren’t sure what to do, so we walked to closest island to have some lakewatching. There was good view very far so we decided to spend the morning there. We were wondering why there was no-one in beautiful houses. But we couldn’t see anything (signs or something) why we couldn’t go to the beach. We were trying to see if African Skimmers were back to breeding places. We saw some Brown Herons, Night Herons, Egyptian Geese, White Pelicans, but no lifers. After two hours we suddenly heard amazing loud shouting behind our backs. A local old man (guardian or something) was shouting Arabic for us and he was really angry! Only word we understood was kalabush – jail. So we thought we were in area where we shouldn’t be. Our bus was leaving after one hour so we decided to get back to our hotel – not to jail. The man was all the time walking after us and shouting Arabic. It was so frustrating because we really didn’t understand anything why he was shouting. Luckily he soon left him behind and we could concentrate on birding again. While walking we saw a nice family of Egyptian Geese with nine kids, two pairs of African Wagtails, Spoonbills and some Glossy Ibises. But soon the man came again to shout behind us and we had to continue walking.

At hotel we packed our luggage and soon we walked to temples to find our bus. Later we heard the island where we had been was a holiday island fo Egyptian ministry, and it was not aloud to get there. Well I think they should make that clear somehow. Maybe one sign would help a lot!

We were driving back to Assuan in good time for birds. But the driving was really something crazy again. But we saw a flock of 80 Spotted Sand Grouses! So the rest of driving we could get some sleep.
At Assuan we relaxed some hours and later we went to search how to get to Cairo. At railway station we had to wait 1.5 hours before they started to sell tickets. When it opened I had to fight against all local people to stay in line. It was awful. Everyone tried to go before me; even I was first in line. And finally when I reached the seller he told second class tickets were sold out, like first class too. Sleeping car was 10 times more expensive (more than 100 €). I almost lost my hope but then he told there were still Nefertiti tickets. OK! “Give me three.” Price was just 13€ for students, so we were able to get to Cairo 1000km North. And we would be there in early morning. Next train and bus would have been in next day!

Our car was very good! Better than 1st class in Finland. There was a servicer too which promised to do everything he could that there wouldn’t be more people in our room. There were six seats in our room, so we could easily sleep well. At night one of us visited toilet and noticed the servicer had kept his promise: there was eight big men in next room and we were still by ourselves!

Lake Qarun 3rd of March

We met our driver and friend Gamal at railway station. (We had phoned him day before.) We found him, or he found us, easily and our journey to Lake Qarun 100km from Cairo begun. In Fayyom area, where Lake Qarun lays, they are protecting tourist so that soldiers are following you where ever you go. So there was a car full of men with machineguns following us.

First stops on the shore of big lake showed us there were pretty many birds. The lake is famous because of wintering birds. Black-headed and Slender-billed Gulls were hundreds. Waders including Little Stints, Dunlins, and other Sandpipers. Some Grey Plovers were standing on the reefs. New birds for the trip were Pochard and Great Crested Grebe which were on the lake with hundreds of Coots. Kestler was common, but also some Black-winged Kites, Marsh and Hen Harriers were found too. Graceful Prinias and Fan-tailed Warblers were singing loudly and several Glamorous Reed Warblers were heard too. Great Grey Shrikes, African Green Bee-eaters and Palm Doves were sitting on the wires. But there were also some Turtle and Collared Doves.

Our goal was to find Painted Snipe from wet field and fish pool areas. We walked all good looking places but we found just 20 Snipes and some Jack Snipes. Ruffs, Redshanks and other waders were found too. Also Kingfishers, Little Bitterns, 10 Senegal Thick-knees and many passerines: Pipits, Warblers… We found also dead Short-eared owl.

After some hours field walking our guardians lost their nerves. I think their work stopped at 4 p.m. so always when we were walking too far they put the alarms on! So we had to stop our searching. Five Great White Egrets and Great Black-headed Gull weren’t enough to make us happy. When driving to Panorama hotel, where we were going to see Tom Collins again, we saw some very good looking new wet areas. But we decided to come back there next day.

We were too early so Tom wasn’t yet in his room. And the hotel was far too expensive for us, so we decided to drive back to Cairo to Pension Roma hotel. Gamal would have driven to his home anyway. After little driving we found Tom with his driver driving towards us and we promised to meet him next morning at his hotel.

Painted Snipe – Finally! 4th od March

Five a.m. we were again on a way to Lake Qarun. Now we were that early that guardian weren’t waiting for any tourists yet, so we avoided them. We found Tom at Panorama hotel and he told us something about Whinchat and Little Owl, but we were interested of finding Painted Snipe. So we went with our guide Tom to places where he had seen Painted Snipes sometimes, and surprise the places were just the same we had been walking day before. The birder knows the birding place! Again Snipes, Jack Snipes… Then we remembered those places we missed the day before, and went to check those wet areas. We spread and started to walk and then it happened, a male Painted Snipe jumped to fly in front of Tom and landed soon to next plants. We couldn’t find the bird when it was walking, but soon it flew again, now little further. Our dreams came finally true. Even the bird was male (the uglier one) we were extremely happy! Text messages were sent to Catalonia and to Finland directly! We had found Painted Snipe from the last possibly place, because we hadn’t more places to go to find it. And it was our last birding day on the trip! Soon Tom had to leave at work and we had to continue our way to Wadi El Rayan which is a lake in the middle of Sahara.

Last afternoon birding

Wadi El Rayan was fabulous! Amazing soft sand was everywhere and in the middle of this silence there was a beautiful lake with hundreds of Great Crested Grebes, and Pochards and Tufted Ducks. We found a big reedbed with very many Chiffchaffs and other passerines. Oriols ringing wills woke up. It would have been perfect place for nets. But after all we were now more interested about fossils! There were millions of nummulites on the sand. Further up the dunes we found a lot of bones and sharks teeth. We walked noses on the sand more than hour but then we had to start our way back to Cairo.

At Cairo we went to Sakkara pyramids to see this pyramid but also to see Pharaoh’s Eagle Owl which was living on the pyramids rocks. But we couldn’t find it. So we continued passing thousands of breeding Cattle Egrets to Wadi Digla valley, which was another place to find this small Eagle Owls subspecies.

We reached Wadi Digla at afternoon but we had only two hours to sunset. And we knew we had to walk more than three kilometers (one way) to find Owls. Wadi was pretty tight (50-70m), but walls were high. It had been raining some days ago because needlebushes had beautiful flowers. When evening begun to get cooler we could find many birds: White-crowned Black Wheatears were singing, Desert Wheatears, Black Redstarts and Trumpeter Finches. Swifts were screaming up the sky and first Scrub Warblers were found hiding in the bushes. Hanna who was walking after by collecting stones and fossils saw also one Quail.

We had been walking at least four kilometres without any Pharaoh’s Eagle Owls and it started to get dark. So we decided to turn back because we couldn’t know how far the Place Tom had told us would have been. But soon we heard a call of Eagle Owl. Even it was not similar than our Eagle Owls voice it was easy to recognize. And to hear the bird is just the same than to see the bird for us Finnish birders. Hanna heard possibly an Egyptian Nightjar too, but too far.

To the way back home

At 1 a.m. we had to say goodbye to Oriol, because his flight to Barcelona was leaving. After two days Oriol had to begun his spring ringing season. We had still one day in Cairo, but we weren’t birding anymore. Our last day was shopping day! We were shopping in Islamic Cairo’s biggest bazaars by buying souvenirs. And everything we bought we could hassle 80% price off! We were pretty good after being two weeks in the country! Next evening Gamal drove us to airport and we had to say goodbye for him, but we were pretty sure we will meet some day again.

Woodpeckers

After two hours dreams we were again in Budapest. We had again plenty of time to wonder in Hungarian capital. Now we thought to find some birds. So we somehow managed to get to Foqaskeroku hills to Buda, which seemed to be good place to find Woodpeckers. Already from train we saw a lot of marks of woodpeckers so we jumped out the train soon. After 200 meters walking we found what we were searching for: couple of Middle Spotted Woodpeckers. And in same backyard were also a Green Woodpecker and several Nuthatches. In one hour walking we found totally 8 Middle Spotted, 3 Green and 1 Great Spotted and Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. We found also other birds and new trip ticks: Collared Doves, Chaffinches, Jays, 6 Nuthatches, 2 Hawfinches, Bramblings, Long-tailed Tits, Goldfinches, Tree Sparrows, Siskins, Bullfinches and Woodpigeons. We were tired but extremely happy when we went to have some shopping to Budapest city. At night we had our flight back to snowy and icy and birdless Finland.

And believe or not after one day I was already playing rinkball (pretty much like icehockey) in tournament. It was pretty difficult to skate on ice after being in Sahara three days earlier. 🙂

J.A. & H.A.

Spain Catalonia 16th of August to 1st of September 2000

Wedding and birding trip to Catalonia 16.8.-1.9.2000

Finally our summer job period ended and we were free to begin our wedding trip to Catalonia (Spain). When the plane was landing to Barcelona we already saw white egrets flying – Cattle Egrets! It was our first trip tick. Our friend Oriol Clarabuch was already waiting for us at the airport. He had helped us planning the trip (actually had been planning almost the whole trip) and he was going to be our guide almost for whole trip.

Oriol is a professional ringer so of course our trip started from ringing station. So we begun our way to Ebro delta ringing station 200 km South from Barcelona. It was very hot, more than 35 degrees! While driving the motorway we saw some birds: Turtle Dove and Western Black-eared Wheatear… But we continued driving pretty fast. After two hours driving we arrived at big Ebro delta, which showed its nails right away! Small water areas had tens of Whiskered Terns, Purple, Grey and Squacco Herons, Little and Cattle Egrets and Black-winged Stilts. Fan-tailed Warblers were singing in the rice fields, Hoopoe and Kingfisher were flying over us.

When we reached the ringing station David Bigas had already some birds waiting for us: Kingfisher, Great Reed Warbler and Reed Warblers. On the reeds there were Moorhen and Water Rail shouting and from the shore there were Flamingos making strange voices. First Little Bittern was seen from the tower soon, while Whiskered Terns and Fan-tailed Warblers were calling even too loud. Yellow-legged Gulls and Little Terns were flying over the bay; Cormorants were sitting on the poles. Some Whimblers and Osprey were migrating over us, and when some Wood, Common and Green Sandpipers were calling from the sky; I realized there is still some same bird than home.

From nets we found Reed Warblers, Kingfishers and some Tree and House Sparrows, Greenfinches… After the round I climbed to the birdtower. First I found Night Herons flying further while other herons and egrets were flying pretty close for a while. From the bay I scoped hundreds of Coots, Great Crested and Little Grebes, Mallards, Gadwalls and Red-crested Pochards. Soon Oriol, Hanna and David climbed to tower too and right away David found easily a couple of Western Swamphens! Later we saw big flocks of Starlings with pretty many Spotless Starlings. There was also one totally yellow bird in one flock, some escaper? From nets we got still one nice Western Subalpine Warbler and totally we got 58 birds ringed.

Later we talked a lot with all other people who were working in the station. They told about their works which included taking care about injured animals. There were some birds and turtles on the cages. At night we wondered lizards which were climbing on the walls and the strange voices of frogs, grasshoppers and egrets. (David left home and we took the ringing responsibility for all the next days.)

Crested Coots

Six a.m. I jumped up and climbed to birdtower while others were still sleeping. Some Slender-billed Gulls and Black-winged Stilts were found directly. On the bay there was some poles which had a Gull-billed Tern sitting on one. Others woke up to the first net round which offered Cetti`s Warbler and Savi`s Warbler. After some rounds we took Oriols car and drove to Playa de la Marquesa, which is the nearest bigger bay of Ebro-delta. There were many waders (like our Catalan friends promised): hundreds of Curlew Sandpipers and Dunlins, some Little Stints and Knots, Sandpipers, Kentish Plovers and Golden Plovers, Black-tailed Godwits with one Bar-tailed Godwit and a Curlew. Sandwiched Terns, Gull-billed Terns and Audouin’s Gulls were flying over the bay. Of course there was also a lot of Whiskered Terns, Egrets, Fan-tailed Warblers etc.

After some hours trip which was pretty hot and sweat (+38 degrees) we rushed back to station. It was totally too hot for birds too – nets were all empty. Finally it was good light to go to have a check to the closest bay. Before I went there I asked Oriol if it’s possible to see Crowned Coots in this area. And Oriol answered: “Impossible”. Well I walked to the bay and started to scan the birds (Little Grebes, Red-breasted Pochards and Flamingos). I didn’t care a lot about the Coots because there was too much of them. But then I realized there was something wrong with one Coot – it had a neck-ring. Funny I thought – it had also something red in his head – Crowned Coot!!! And it was one of the nearest birds! I ran to the station and on the way I heard a Penduline Tit calling. Oriol was amazed but we all ran back to the bay really fast. I found the bird pretty easily and I begun to tell the others where it was. “Little bit left from the Cormorants, behind the `nettas´”. And Oriol translated it to Catalan for other Catalans. Same time Hanna was telling something very weird instructions about finding the bird. But then I found another bird and realized that Hanna had a different bird. But she still had a different place – she had a third bird! And all these three birds were colour-ringed! These birds were the first birds in Catalan in ten years. And the last bird was shot by the hunter and took for the birders, only then they believed. (The head of that bird is still on the bottle in station!) Before that this species had been last in Catalan 40 years ago. (Of course these birds were introduced birds from Southern Spain, but anyway.)

At afternoon we saw still many interesting birds. So our triplist was getting longer. One Savi’s Warbler was singing, but more interesting was a little poisonous snake which Hanna found from the yard. (They had told us that there is no poisonous animals in the area :-).

Early morning I managed to see one very good bird: I saw an Aquatic Warbler. At day we went to Riumar, Ebro-rivers delta, which showed up to be too much touristic place for us. But after a little driving we managed to find some birds too: Crested Larks were everywhere, Flamingos with 8 Glossy Ibises, Black-winged Stilts, Avocets, other common waders, hundreds of Little Egrets, 3 Little Bitterns, 5 Shelducks, Lesser Black-backed Gulls (different subspecies), Fan-tailed Warblers and over the sea thousands of Yellow-legged Gulls with some Auduoin’s and Slender-billed Gulls. Also we saw and heard many Collared Doves.

From nets we got some Kingfishers, Great Reed Warbler, some Savi’s Warblers, Western Subalpine Warbler, Willow Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Swallow, Greenfinch, Tree Sparrow, House Sparrow and 38 Reed Warblers.

Southern side of Ebro river

Next morning the first bird from the nets was a Nightingale. Soon we started our way to South side of the Ebro river, and we tried to get to all the best places. One stop in the middle of some fields was good with Skylarks, Short-toed Larks and one Mediterranean Short-toed Lark. La Tancadas fishpools showed us many Yellow-legged Gulls, one Caspian Tern and 80 Mediterranean Gulls. Soon we continued to the best Mediterranean Short-toed Lark and Collared Pratincole places. Pratincolas were easy to find. In one place there was at least 13 birds hunting insects. There was also all kind of larks, but we couldn’t see any Mediterranean Short-toed Lark well.

At Salinas de la Trinitat, we collected some shells and swam a little, because it was far too hot for birding. Some flocks of Sanderlings were flying on the shore of this 7 km long and 100 m wide sandbeach. Also Mediterranean Gulls were found many. Later, when it was still amazing hot, we reached the place where was thousands and thousands of Auduoin’s Gulls. There was a hide from where we could see these gulls more than anywhere else. From the sea we found also one old Gannet and one Arctic Skua which was our 100th triptick!

At sandbeaches we found also Turnsone and collected more shells. Later at La Casa de Fusta it became too hot to have any more birdwatching. So we continued back to ringing station. At afternoon we saw only one Gadwall and almost albino House Sparrow.

Second last morning at Ebro begun with some quiet net rounds. Later we went with Oriol and two local birdwatchers (Jopep-Maria and Ralf) to watch birds to the closest beaches. At El Canalot we found 3 Hoopoes, Spotless Starlings, flock of 45 Black-winged Stilts, Spotted Redshank, Grey Plover, Purple Heron, Flamingos, Fan-tailed Warblers and Cettis Warblers. But the best bird was a migrating Eleonora’s Falcon.

Another side of El Canalot we found more Plovers, Black-tailed Godwits, Ruffs and 26 Curlews (the last ones were the most interesting birds for locals), hundreds of Sandwiched Terns and Audouin`s Gulls – and other gulls, 3 Oystercatchers and 2 Arctic Skuas (last ones were good ones for locals), sandpipers, Purple and Grey Herons and 80 Kentish Plovers! At the evening arrived first Crested Coot twitchers. The last bird from nets was Fan-tailed Warbler (finally).

Misty birds

At next morning we drove to Premia de Mar, Oriol’s hometown, 20 km North from Barcelona. Right away we went to have some seawatching to long beach. 45 minutes seawatching showed: two Gannets, Cory`s Shearwater and Audouin’s Gulls. Later in the evening we went to Tiana hill to try to catch Red-necked Nightjars. We reached the hill about half an hour before the sunset but we found nice birds: Jays (which were darker than our Jays), Alpine Swifts were circling up the sky, Western Subalpine, Sardinian and Dartford Warblers were calling in the bushes, Crested Tit was calling in the forest, Inerian Green Woodpeckers were shouting on the hillside, and Red-legged Partridges were calling down on the fields. We really didn’t know where to watch! But we had to get the nets up before it came dark. With Oriol and his friend Raul we managed to put the nets up very fast. Rauls Boida dog was also following us all the time.

First Nightjars came to fly over the nets even before we had the tape calling. Also Little Owl started to call. So we put the tape for it too. But it was an autumn, birds weren’t very interested about our tapes. Luckily we managed to get one European Nightjar, but we couldn’t even see a Red-necked. But it was nice to sit still and see the Little Owl calling on the moonlight .

Vic – ringing and twitching

Our seventh day in Catalonia was a tourist day. We took the train to Barcelona, where we visited a Gothic city with Barri Gotic and La Seu cathedrals, La Sagrada Familia was of course visited too. Also we made some shopping. But we managed to see some birds too: Parc de la Ciutadella has a breeding population of Monk Parakeets. At afternoon we packed all our stuff with us and started our way to somewhere! We weren’t told exactly where we were going! We just knew we were going to have some ringing and we had some sort of place to stay overnight, and we would have some company – other ringers. Oriol had planned everything ready! Funny!

So we drove to North and to Vic (a home town of Josep-Maria and Raul). On the way we saw some Carrion Crows. At night we met Josep-Maria, Raul and our new “helpers” Alex and Jepi. First we tried one Scops Owl (we did heard it) and after a lunch we went to Ter river to put some nets ready for the next morning.

When in Ter we heard some Bee-eaters but then came the darkness. It was amazing how we managed to put the nets up to that place because it was very difficult even to walk in that place. But somehow we made it. The night we spent on the floor of one old school, and even our place wasn’t five star hotel, we were sleeping very soon.

Josep-Maria woke us up like in army, even we felt like we wouldn’t have slept more than an hour yet. Soon we were wondering a dry river, which had nicely net lines ready in two different places. There was already some Common Sandpipers, Little Ringed Plover, Pied Wagtails and Grey Wagtails hanging on the nets. Also one Blackcap, Robin, Song Thrush, Blackbird and some tits were seen. Wrens were singing like Cetti’s Warblers and Goldfinches too, latter were everywhere and big flocks. Bee-eaters, Stock Doves, Collared Doves and Turtle Doves were also seen. Also we saw migrating Common Buzzard and Peregrine. Golden Oriol was singing shortly like saying hello to Oriol. From the nets we got Cetti’s Warblers, more Grey Wagtails, Garden Warbler, young Magpie, Goldfinch and so on. From the trees we found a Short-toed Treecreeper. But soon it was time to move on again. Locals had a minute schedule planned for us and so we packed the nets.

Driving around

Now we continued close to Rauls home to Vic’s farmlands. Next “bimbo” (a lifer in Catalan) for us was a Cirl Bunting. Soon we reached an old abandoned house, and we guessed right what we were searching for: while others were getting in the house me and Hanna saw a Barn Owl flying out from the window. We tried to find the bird again but we found only two dead owls from the train tunnel. But we found some other interesting bird: Stonechats, Woodchat Shrikes, Wryneck and some Red-legged Partridges, so we were very happy.

Next it was Josep-Marias turn to lead us. We drove up to the 1100 meters high hill, which was reached only with Josep-Marias 4×4 car. On the way we saw some Wood Larks. Again we didn’t know what to search for but Hanna noticed that the place was good for fossils. I tried to look with binos up and down and both sides but I found only Honey Buzzard, Peregrine and some Crag Martins. At same time Hanna, Oriol, Josep-Maria and Jepi were walking noses on the ground. They even found some fossils, but Jepi found the best one: a Scorpion. But the birds that we were searching for weren’t found. The nest was till there – Egyptian Vultures had left the building. But we found still some Firecrests.

PNAE – a bird paradise

We were again in tight schedule and continued driving to next place to Park Natural dels Aiguamolls Empuria. We said goodbye to our helpers, and continued with just Oriol to the coast again. At Sant Pere Pescasor we met again new people: Gabriel Gargallo and his wife were waiting for us in a local restaurant. We ate amazing well before we continued to nature centre, where we had a room to stay. At night we managed to hear a Thick-knee calling but soon we were sleeping.

I woke up early and I heard Little Owl and Thick-knees calling again. White Storks were on the light poles. Nightingales tried to sing a little, and Goldfinches were again everywhere. Also egrets, Collared Doves, Cetti`s Warblers and so on was seen. At the closest birdtower we couldn’t find any bird but some deers.

Soon we left to one good place for passerines; witch unfortunately had burned in big forest fire some weeks before. The fire had been that big that we had heard about it in Finnish news! 10 x 6 km area had burned almost totally. In that dust and ash we tried to catch some passerines – mostly Orphean and Sardinian Warblers. We did catch some Sardinian Warblers and saw some Nightingales. But we couldn’t find any Orphean Warblers. We saw also some Pallid Swifts, Cirl Buntings, young Woodchat Shrike and a nice Borelli’s Eagle flying soaring with also nice Short-toed Eagle! But soon we had to hurry again!

Now we went to Cap de Creus, which is a rocky tip of a cape. We noticed soon it’s difficult to find birds in a place like that. But after half an hour searching we found a Blue Rock Thrush and a pair of Thekla Larks on the top of the same hill. Rock Pigeons were also nice to see – one sort of lifer! Crag Martins and Pallid Swifts were flying very nicely towards the hard wind. On the rocks on the sea there were some Shags sitting and I managed to see one Western Black-eared Wheatear migrating. But we couldn’t find any Black Wheatears even we really tried.

Good twitching

At afternoon we were again at the nature centre. We met a local bird guide, which lead us to see some good birds. Soon we found first good one – a young Roller. Soon we saw also two more Rollers. On the way we found also adult Woodchat Shrike, some raptors and Lesser Grey Shrike. 40 Cattle Egrets and Great Woodpecker were also seen. Our next target was a Moustached Warbler which was found pretty easily. In same place we saw amazingly the only Corn Bunting in our trip and Stonechats, Crested Larks, Bee-eaters etc. At the evening we found a flock of 32 Thick-knees feeding in one field. At night Oriol went to see his girlfriend and we went to put some nets with our new “helper” Juan-Carlos. Again we had to do everything in dark, and it was really difficult. But we made it again.

Again it was difficult to wake up, but soon we had power again to do some ringing. There was already some Nightingales, House Sparrows and a Stonechat hanging on the nets. Hobby and Pheasants were new trip ticks. Nice brave White Stork gave us to photograph itself from 3 metres. But we had time for only one more net round before we left to do some twitching again.

Oriol was already waiting for us and we were going again. After some hundred meters Oriol said something about clamator, and it was true a Great Spotted Cuckoo flew over the road! We were driving on a protected area and saw a lot of Hoopoes and Bee-eaters.

At the beaches there were hundreds of Bee-eaters, Kentish Plovers, finally first Southern Grey Shrike, Cuckoo, male Golden Oriol, Short-toed Eagle, Iberian Green Woodpeckers, Flamingos, Red-backed Shrike and a lot more. At the centre Juan-Carlos had a Hoopoe which had hit by car. The bird was anyway in pretty good shape.

Later we had to leave PNAE. Before leaving we still checked the last corner of the area and it was worthy! Western Swamphens were 16, some Flamingos, Pochards, Garganey, some sandpipers with one Temminck`s Sandpiper (rare there), a lot of other waders, 42 White Storks, some Mute Swans and many Bee-eaters and Stonechats.

On the way back to Premia we visited Oriol’s family’s summer home. I think it was more like a castle! 800 years old big house had also beautiful forests, and it was only 30 km from Barcelona. We tried to find some warblers, but the first bird I found was a surprise. I was totally out when I heard that bird’s voice, but it was easier when I saw it – it was a Ring-necked Parakeet! We found also some Short-toed Treecreepers and Yellow Serins. But it was already afternoon so we couldn’t find much more.

To the Pyrenees

26th of August we started our mountain trip to Pyrenees. First we rented a car from Mataro. Oriol had to help a lot because the local people never understood any English! But soon we were driving North to our “honeymoon” just me and Hanna together.

We saw Montserrat Mountains on our way, but neither it nor European Red-rumped swallow could make us stop. Also we saw a flock of 40 Cattle Egrets, Roller, Woodchat Shrikes and some new common northern birds as a trip ticks. Close to first bigger mountains there was a nice place to have a dinner. It was even open when we are used to eat! First Griffon Vultures were gliding over the mountains, Alpine Swifts, Carrion Crows, and some Golden Eagles were also seen. Some other Griffon Vultures were seen later but we had to hurry, because we had to be at Pont de Suert in our hotel six p.m.

Our room was pretty nice. And after good night sleep we drove back to same mountains to find some passerines and of course raptors. When we reached the place there was 170 Griffon Vultures soaring in 3-4 flocks with two Egyptian Vultures and some Short-toed Eagles! Soon all Eagles disappeared to the clouds or behind the mountains. Little later we saw two Booted Eagles and one Goshawk but then all raptors were disappeared. So we walked down to the river and we found some passerines: couple of Nuthatches, Redstarts, Pied and Striated Flycatchers, 50 Linnets, Roller, Great Spotted Woodpecker and Cirl Buntings. We also practised some mountain climbing and walked to one small hill. While climbing we found nice female Rock Thrush and some lizards and butterflies.

At afternoon we passed 3400 meters high mountain and drove through 5200 metres long tunnel to Vielha. Vielha was a nice alpine kind of city, and we had some shopping there. At night we arrived back to Pont de Suert to eat at same time than locals.

Tough day

Next day was a mountain day. Early we were driving towards Besiberri Mountains. On the way we realized that it was really cold – only 7 degrees. And I had worn just shorts and t-skirt. On the way we saw some Long-tailed Tits (which weren’t that nice than ours), Bullfinches, Coal Tits and Crested Tits. At dam we tried to find Wallcreeper, but we couldn’t find any. But we saw a lot other interesting birds: a couple of Red-billed Coughs were climbing on the dam wall, Citril Finches were in the bushes, Rock Buntings, Dunnocks and Chiffchaffs were seen too. We also heard a local rarities – Black Woodpecker (it was nothing else than a trip tick for us then). Also more common Iberian Green Woodpeckers were heard (much more interesting for us).

When the temperature rose more than 10 degrees, we started to climb. We had planned to climb to 2700 meters high mountain and walk about 9 km long route (most up there). When we passed a sign which had some Catalan with a word expert, we didn’t realize the route could be more difficult than we thought. Well we climbed really steep mountainside, which had some kind of markings telling where the route was going. For a while there was more difficult places when it was important to know where the route was going otherwise we would have been soon food for vultures. Soon we realized the route was so steep that we couldn’t turn back anymore. It would have been too steep to climb down! So we had to continue climbing and hope it won’t get any harder. After two hours climbing we had moved on map less than 500 meters and the dam was still visible under us (but it was just very tiny). Some Griffon Vultures came to watch if we are soon eatable. Also Rock Pipits, Common Crossbills and Goldcrest came to our list. And latter was already magical 200th species on our trip!

Luckily it came safer to walk. But up there in the high mountain it was still really difficult to walk. We had to jump from rocks to rocks. And like always in high there wasn’t many birds. But when we found one it was always interesting one. Alpine Accentors were beautiful. Only two birds were seen but more were heard. When in 2700 meters we saw some Pyrenean Gemses (sort of deers) and also feathers and shit of Ptarmigan! It was really difficult to stay on the route, there was just some rocks stacked every 50 meters. Binoculars helped a lot to see those stacked rocks.

We lost the “track” once, but found luckily right place to start climbing down. In lower altitudes there were again some birds: some tits, Rock Buntings and Black Redstarts. Soon we met first people too. These guys had all mountain climbing equipments with them even this side was really for children if compare to other side from where we were coming. Soon we were down in a grassy meadow, and we remembered someone had told us there were weasels. And soon I found the first one: “Look Hanna just beside of you, size of a beaver!” Then Hanna noticed it too just before it disappeared under a big stone. It really was huge! Soon we found some more weasels and also Meadow Pipits, Black Redstarts and some Citril Finches. From meadow to dam it was some three km to walk. But now we were walking on a highway! And there were also a lot of tourists. Good we had chosen an expert route! 9 hours after leaving our car we saw our rented Corsa again! And we had still one can of Coke waiting for us.

Waiting for Bearded Vulture

Next day we took little easier. We even had breakfast in our hotel! Then we went to one natural park near Boi. In the area it was aloud to walk or take a taxi, but we found out there were too many people waiting for the taxi. So we decided to walk (again).

The route was like a highway and so it didn’t feel as good as yesterday. So we walked only some five kilometres in nice green mountain area. We saw only some birds. Views were beautiful, many butterflies, some Golden Eagles and Griffon Vultures and falcons, one Dipper and so on. Maybe the taxi would have taken us to even better places?

Our last day in Pyrenees was a vulture day. After breakfast we went to that place we had been before. We found a rock where was a lot of Griffon Vultures sitting. But it had been raining all night and it was still cold, so the birds were just sitting. Two Egyptian Vultures were sitting close to 80 Griffons. Some local guardians came to ask (in Catalan) who we are and they really weren’t friendly. But I think they were taking care of those Vultures. But the birds just kept sitting.

Then it happened! Hanna found a different shaped of big Vulture. There it was – a Bearded Vulture! It was amazing. Almost an adult bird was gliding while Griffon Vultures were just watching for it. It was soaring nicely against the mountains for some seven minutes. And just after it disappeared where it had came from, I found a Red Kite soaring with some Griffon and Egyptian Vultures. That was enough for us, so we started our way back to Mataro. We drove pretty fast (I started to used to local speed). On the way we saw one beautiful pale morph bird of Booted Eagle.

Something before the end

Oriol was there again helping for us with the car. (The price was 166 € for 5 days) And soon we were again in Premia de Mar. After a lunch we went again to try to catch Red-necked Nightjars. Raul had already nets ready when we reached at Mataro. Unfortunately it started to rain a little, but not too much. We caught only one old male Sardinian Warbler but we managed to see shortly both European and Red-necked Nightjar flying.

After breakfast we went to nearest hills of Premia. First we wondered nice views to Barcelona and a migration of Alpine Swifts. About 500 birds passed us very close and stopped to a huge flock to soar. We found also some Dartford, Sardinian and Western Subalpine Warblers. And our last trip tick was a Melodious Warbler which sang a little for our cd-player. We also saw it very shortly. After this we visited a dolm made by Asterix and Obelix I think.

Then it was again Barcelona’s turn. We had still some souvenirs to buy. We also visited Zoological Museum. At the evening we had amazing good lunch at Premia with Oriol and his parents. Later we had to pack our luggage. At early morning Oriol drove us to airport and after goodbyes and thank yous we were on our way back to Finland. Oriol of course continued straight to Ebro to ring some birds.

Totally we saw in our trip amazing 207 bird species! We had just 13 birding days and it was August, which is not the best time to watch bird in Catalan either. Everything was great and we have to thank Oriol and all his friends for everything they made for us!! We were surprised because there were good equipments in all bird places in Catalonia! There were nice hides, bird towers and information centres in those places that we visited. The biggest problem in our trip was that most people couldn’t speak English at all.

Of course the birds were the most interesting part of our trip, but all those views, mammals, lizards and of course all those nice people that really became also our friends made our honeymoon unforgettable!

J.A.

Tripreports

Janne ja Hanna Aallon lintusivut

Eastern Finland 26th of June to 8th of July 2003

Norway, Varanger 18th to 21st of April 2003

Egypt 19th of February to 6th of March 2002

Spain Catalonia 16th of August to 1st of September 2000

Jaa:

Jaa:

Jaa:

Jaa: