After a hard bird-work-summer it was time to start a hard bird-holiday and we left north to Enontekiö where my brother Pirkka lives and from there we continued to Altafjorden and Lyngen.

With Hanna we left from Oulu on the 20th of August by bus and after a couple of changes of buses we were finally in Enotekiö Hetta. We still had time to visit a new Joentekiäinen bird-tower but only interesting birds were some Waxwings and a Hen Harrier. Anyway the scenery was beautiful.

Walking in fjelds

On the 21st of August after a long night sleep we left at 6 a.m. towards Ketomella. On the way we stopped a couple of times and had a Red-throated Pipit in Vuontisjärvi and a family of Great Grey Shrikes in Peltovuoma. Finally Pirkka dropped us to the place where our long walk started; Pirkka had to go to work. We had planned to walk 30 kilometres along Ounas-Pallas National Park trail back to Hetta.

I was carrying my scope and in the beginnig we were walking through some pineforests and small bogs where we saw several flocks of migrating Common Crossbills, some Siberian Jays, lots of Mistle Thrushes and Waxwings and so on. Soon we came to National Park and the forests changed to birch-forest and after some climbing there was no trees at all anymore. There we saw plenty of Lapland Buntings, a couple of Kestrels, Hen Harriers and Rough-legged Buzzards; it seemed there were many Lemming eaters around.

Soon we found the first Peregrine Falcon that was mobbed by 2 Kestrels and a little bit later we found a sub-adult Golden Eagle soaring far over fjelds.

After some climbing along the hillsides of Ounasfjeld we found a family of Snow Buntings from the top of Pyhäkero. There we walked a lot in rocky ground and it was really hard work because of it was getting very warm. But finally we found a couple of families of Ptarmigans, 2 males, 2 females and altogether 13 young birds. Males were calling and somewhere further a third male was calling too. We of course photographed these birds well before we continued walking.

Later we still found a family of Golden Plovers and after 30 kilometres walking we were on the shore of Lake Ounas and we got a taxi-boat to the other side of the lake to Hetta.

To Altafjorden

The next day we were just relaxing after a hard walking day. Of course we visited Sotkajärvi bird-tower in the evening and saw 2 Peregrine Falcons and on the way back to Hetta we saw a Three-toed Woodpecker in Muotkajärvi.

On the 23rd of August we left towards Norway. After we had crossed the border, we started to collect Norway-ticks. I had been in Norway only in spring so there were plenty of new ticks coming: Mistle Thrush, House Martin, Pintail… In Kautokeino we stopped and visited Juhls silver-workshop.

When we started to get near Altafjorden the scenery changed: pine-forest, lush leaf-forests and high mountains. A Black-throated Diver and Waxwings were seen before we finally saw the Arctic Sea in Alta and there we saw Black Guillemots, Red-throated Divers, hundreds of Eiders and so on.

It was already getting late so we stopped only in good looking places. We photographed a tame young Shelduck and the first porpoises were seen on the sea.

Finally we parked to Längenesjolmen (Isnestoften) to a shore where we had on our previous visit seen an Iceland Gull. It was the westernmost spit of Finnmark so Pirkka hoped to get still some Finnmark-ticks there. The scenery was amazing, high mountains were rising straight from the sea around us.

We put up the tent very close to the sea and still walked for some time on the beach. Hanna was collecting seashells but soon the sun set down and we went to sleep.

Around the fjords

On the 24th of August we woke up very early and it took 15 minutes to get out. There was already lots of action in the air! Greylag Geese were calling and Arctic Skuas were mobbing a Peregrine Falcon. It didn’t take long that we were completely awake!

Soon we found the first Kittiwakes, a Long-tailed Duck, Cormorants, 2 Shags, 2 White-tailed Eagles flew over us and we heard Two-barred Crossbills calling from the sky.

Hanna went to walk to the beach but the tide was very high now so she just photographed some Eiders. We stayed there watching to the sea for several hours and saw still a Dunlin, a Merlin, a Common Scoter and a Yellowhammer and so on.

After all we had to keep on driving and we drove around many fjords. In Langfjordbotn (Finnöyra) we saw Bar-tailed Godwits and altogether we saw several Lapwings, Oystercatchers, Ringed Plovers, Dunlins, Spotted Redshanks, Shelduck families and Common Terns. A single Wood Pigeon flew over us too.

We also saw a Herring Gull carrying a huge sea star. Hanna would loved to see the seastar better but all other birds were chasing the gull so after all it flew in the middle of the fjord to eat it alone.

To Tromsø

We crossed to border to Tromsø province and the first spruce-forest producted some species that we hadn’t seen in Finnmark at all like a Robin. From Sorstrammen bridge we saw a couple of Grey Herons and about 20 Greylag Geese.

In Kväenangsfjället the road got higher to the mountains and there we saw a big falcon briefly and we were quite sure it was a Gyr Falcon. Unfortunately we saw it too briefly.

In Rodsund we saw a Bean Goose in a flock of Greylag Geese and then we got to our target place to Lyngen and there we drove to Spåkenes where was a hide for birders.

Spåkenes wader-place

The tide was starting so the waders were still pretty far: 2 Sanderlings, 25 Curlew Sandpipers, 15 Little Stints, 50 Knots, 500 Dunlins, 60 Ringed Plovers, a Turnstone, Ruffs and so on. Also 10 Arctic Skuas, 23 Shelducks, 35 Greylag Geese, a White-tailed Eagle, 3 Kittiwakes, a Merlin and 40 Velvet Scoters were seen.

The tide was getting higher and all waders were pushed closer and closer to us and soon there were only a couple of reefs that were full of birds. Then many birds had to leave to other places or to continue their migration.

We also continued and decided to stop after a couple of kilometres to watch to the sea. After some searching I found a small seabird floating far in the middle of the sea. Luckily it was coming closer slowly and after some waiting we could identify it as a young Puffin. It was a lifer to me and Hanna!

While we continued our way we laughed how we started to get used to mountains. Our last and 74th Norway-tick was a Rock Pigeon in Skibotn.

We crossed the border to Finland in the evening and the mountains changed to lower and more roundish fjelds. In Kilpisjärvi we started to plan where to tent. There we saw a tame young Peregrine Falcon perched no a top of an electric pole.

After all we decided to drive to the eastern part of Lake Siilas to tent. The place was perfect, Red-throated Divers were calling in flight while we fell asleep.

Saanafjeld

The 25th of August. Our last day was spent in Saana. We wanted to find some fjeld-specialities. There had been Ring Ouzels, Long-tailed Skuas, Dotterels and a Gyr Falcon earlier in summer.

We started early and after we had heard a Tree Pipit we started to climb up to Saana. After some walking in low birches, we started to walk in junipers. Pirkka had to go to do morning sit somewhere to bushes and right then we found a female Ring Ouzel! Almost in same time a Peregrine Falcon flew over us and a family of 9 Willow Grouse was running almost under our feet.

After we had photographed the Willow Grouses we found Pirkka and he was a little bit jealous but shit happens! But soon we heard something like a Raven calling from the top of the fjeld and it wasn’t a Raven but a Ptarmigan female with 6 chicks! These Ptarmigans wee very different in colouration than the ones we had seen in Ounaskero. These were much greyer.

From the top of Saana we found a couple of families of Snow Buntings. Meadow Pipits and Northern Wheatears were common; also a couple of Red-throated Pipits were heard. We decided to walk down to Lake Saana and from there we walked back to the Ring Ouzel place. And luckily we find the bird again and Pirkka was happy. Only a couple of Kestrels were seen anymore and after about 20 kilometres walking we were back to Pirkka’s car.

We still visited Kilpisjärvi research station before left to drive towards Hetta. Between Kilpisjärvi and Karesuvanto we saw 13 Rough-legged Buzzards and in Jietajänkä we saw a Great Grey Shrike.

Back to home

Next morning we took a bus to Rovaniemi and there we changed to a train. In Tervola we saw a Nutcracker from a window. It was a long way home but finally we made it in the evening.

Altogether we had seen 94 species of birds during our trip. And we had seen amazing landscapes! So we had really enjoyed!

J.A.

We had been jealous to Jari “konza” kontiokorpi for years as he had been birding so much in Russia. Especially we had heard many stories about amazing arctic migration in Vyborg. When we finally had some holiday from our work in Siikalahti, we wanted to go to see the places where we could maybe one day go to watch arctica. Konza promised to show us some of the best places so maybe Hanna could later plan a tour to Russian Karelia too.

On the 2nd of August we hit the road by Hanna’s father’s “new” Golf. We picked up Konza in Simpele and in Imatra we needed to get some papers for the car so Hanna’s father needed to follow us until there. Finally we had got one more stamp to our papers and we were ready to continue to the border.

Luckily we had Konza with us, we needed to carry so many papers to different offices and get so many stamps to every paper. But finally we were free to drive to Russia.

Vyborg

We were in Vyborg about at midday. We drove straight to Tervaniemi. Of course there is nothing much to see in arctic migration places in this time of the year, but anyway we wanted to see the places. We saw only a Hobby and a Ringed plover.

Next we continued to Pappilanmäki where in the forest we heard a young Greenish Warbler. On the top of the hill the rock was full of glass.

Äyräpäänjärvi

In the afternoon we continued to famous Äyräpäänjärvi. The southern bird-tower was really good. It just took some time to get in to the tower as it was locked. Some local old man was probably a guide or something and he let us go up. We found immediately a stunning Greater Spotted Eagle which was showing very well. It is aloud to fish and hunt on the lake but it seemed to be difficult to watch birds without permissions. Later we saw another Greater Spotted Eagle, several Black Terns, Marsh Harriers, Ospreys, Sparrowhawks and so on.

We continued to west side of the lake to Sikniemi where we saw another pair of Greater Spotted Eagles and then to Bulatnaja fields. There we saw a 2nd calendar year male Hen Harrier, 2 Marsh Harriers, 2 Common Buzzards and a Honey Buzzard. From Kaukila bridge we saw huge reed-beds and how wide River Vuoksi was here. The places really looked good, just the time of the year was wrong.

We stayed in old cowshed that had been renovated to a Vallu’s Guesthouse. Many Finnish tourists were staying in this place. Service and food were good. There were lots of materials from war in the garden so we could have easily spent more time there.

To Ladoga

On the 3rd of August we left early to Ladoga. We were in Taipale before 7 a.m. and there we saw how huge Lake Ladoga really was! We had hoped to see some Common Scoter migration and also Great Spotted Woodpecker migration, but we saw only 317 Common Scoters in 5 flocks and just a single Great Spotter Woodpecker that only tried to go over the lake.

The views were amazing! There was no wind at all and sun was shining from the cloudless sky. Some Greenshanks, Wood Sandpipers, Ruffs, Curlews, Whimbrels and Dunlins and one Black-tailed Godwit were migrating towards south already. Also a Long-tailed duck, 3 Cormorants, Long-tailed Tits, Goldcrests, a Crested Tit, 500 migrating Black-headed gulls, some common Terns, 66 Common Crossbills with some Parrot Crossbills, 6 Ospreys, 2 Hobbies and 7 Marsh Harriers were seen.

There were lots of Russian tourists tenting and fishing on the shore.

In Metsäpirtti shore we saw a Grey Heron and in Igolka we had serious problems to get to the shore because of storms had cut many trees to the road. Luckily someone had been cutting one track clean. There we saw 4 migrating Oystercatchers, 2 Spotted Redshanks and at least 3 local Rustic Buntings.

Our next stop was in Metsäpirtti fields where we saw 2 Honey Buzzards, 3 Common Buzzards, a Hen Harrier, a male Kestrel and a male Marlin. The best bird was a Turtle Dove which Janne saw flying fast to the forest.

To real Russia

We continued checking one fur-corral, Kivennapa, Terijoki and Alakylä fields to real Russia. Until this we had been former Finland.

In Alexandrovskaja pools we found a Grey Heron and some waders: 3 Dunlins, a Temminck Stint, 5 Ringed Plovers, 2 Greenshanks and a Ruff. On the sea we saw a couple of Little Gulls and Black Terns.

In Siestarjärvi we saw another Grey Heron and Common Sandpiper, 20 Little Gulls and a Black Tern. Then we continued to Gorskaja old factory-area and it looked promising. We saw 42 Gadwalls (6 families) and a Garganey. In the evening we tried to find a hotel to stay but Olgino 1300RUR per room was too expensive and a couple of other hotels were just too bad so we chose to go to Repinskaja where we got 2 rooms with 1300RUR. We had no more money to eat so we used cooker on the balcony and had bread with meat-balls.

Lisj Nos warbler paradise

On the 4th of August we woke up early and 5 a.m. we were already driving to the mouth over River Siestar. The weather was very calm and sunny but cool. Only 10 Ringed Plovers, some Dunlins, a Little Ringed Plover and some other common waders were seen. 7 Little Terns were flying on the sea and a Great Crested Grebe had even 7 youngsters. Also a Merlin, 2 Grey Herons and a Nuthatch were seen.

Soon we continued to Lisj Nos grove which was amazing forest with huge leaf trees and also amazing numbers of birds! On the shore we saw Grey Herons, Black Terns, Pochards, a Slavonian Grebe and so on, from the reed-bed we heard Great Reed and Reed Warblers and bushes were full of passerines. We saw plenty of Blackcaps, Garden Warblers, Lesser and Common Whitethroats, Chiffchaffs, Wood Warblers, Wrens, Treecreepers, tits, even a Marsh tit, Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, Nuthatches, Tree Sparrows, a Redstart, a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, a couple of Hawfinches, an Icterine Warbler and so on. They were all together in big flocks!

From Lisj Nos we left towards Vyborg and Finland. We drove along the costal road through Terijoki and Koivisto. Somewhere we collected all our rupias and bought something to eat. From the seaside we still saw some Russian ticks like 4 Stock Doves, 2 Great Black-backed Gulls, a couple of Arctic Terns and 5 Cormorants. Other birds we saw were some Hobbies. We tried to find some Barred Warblers too but they had already left their breeding place.

To Finland

In Vyborg we still checked a couple of places that we had already visited a couple of days earlier and also visited a couple of possible hotels for the future. On the border we had to wait on line for 3 hours before we got to Finland.

Altogether we had seen 121 species so we had got a good beginning to our Russian list. Many South-Karelian birders have much longer lists. But for sure we will get our lists longer in the future!

J.A.

About a week before the trip I got a phone call from Matti Lötjönen: “Hello Janne, would you like to go to Lithuania?”, “Hello Matti, when we are going?”, “After one week.”, “OK!” This was about how it all started.

We left with Hanna from Parikkala by night-train in the evening of the 11th of April. We met Matti in Helsinki and continued by Matti’s small car to the ferry terminal and soon we were going towards Tallinn. On the ferry we started to keep the trip-list. On Thursday 12th of April at 11:30 a.m. we left by car to drive through Tallinn. Matti was driving and Janne reading a map always when we got to the cities. We crossed the border to Latvia and managed to drive through big Riga pretty easily. After we had crossed the border to Lithuania we still had 200 kilometres to drive to Rusne.

Rusne is the south-easternmost place of Lithuania and it is situated on the coast of Baltic Sea, it is a delta-area of the biggest river of the country Nemunas. Rusne is 5 to 7 kilometres big area and there are many fish-pools and many other good birding places too. During the migration there can be more than 10 000 White-fronted Geese on the fields.

On the way we saw mostly Lapwings, Common Buzzards, some flocks of White-fronted Geese and of course White Storks. It was already 10 p.m. when we finally were in Rusne. We called to the owner of our hostel and she came to pick us up from the village. After a couple of minutes we were in our house where a fire was warming. We paid our 2 nights stay with lunches and dinners and it was 220 litas altogether.

Birding in Rushne

On the 13th of April we did birding from the both bird-towers near Rusne fish-pools. We started from the closer tower. Once we had parked our car we heard a Savi’s Warbler singing. Bitterns were calling, Chiffchaffs singing and from the pools we found 5 Black-necked Grebes, a Red-necked Grebe, Great Crested Grebes, Gadwalls, Pochards, lots of Smews, many common ducks and swans. A couple of Penduline Tits were feeding on the willows and moving slowly towards the village. Several Bearded Tits were heard and also a Water Rail was calling. White-fronted Geese were moving from Silute to Rusne fields but they were moving in small flocks. The weather was very moisture so only raptor was a Marsh Harrier. We stayed on the tower for about an hour.

Next we continued to the northern tower and on the way we saw lots of ducks and waders. Pintails, Shovelers, about 100 Teals, some Garganeys, Mallards, about 10 Black-tailed Godwits, 20 Snipes and even 2 Avocets were seen moving somewhere.

From the tower we saw to the sea and there was about 100 Whooper Swans, also Bewick’s Swans were further but the haze made identifying difficult. Mute Swans were staying closer to the tower with Greylag Geese. We also saw several Grey Herons and a White-tailed Eagle that tried to catch a hunter’s plastic duck! It tried to catch it several times flying every time slower and then landed over the duck but the duck of course was too slippery to catch. It was funny to watch! Finally the eagle gave up. On the meadow in front of us there were Black-tailed Godwits and some Redshanks and Ruffs. We also checked some fields nearby but found only more White-fronted Geese. Only some tens of Bean Geese were seen, 110 Barnacle Geese were seen in on flock.

In both Rusne and Oudra village we saw some Grey Partridges. Linnets and Gold Finches were common but we didn’t find any Serins even though we really tried.

Afternoon birding

While waiting for lunch we saw a couple of Black Redstarts in our garden. When we finally understood that we had came an hour too early we decide to sleep a little before the lunch. The lunch was very local, as starter we had raw fish-salad with jam. Then we had local soup and then good pork that had just been killed from the garden and excellent potatoes. Also the dessert was delicious.

In the afternoon we drove to the southern forest areas. Unfortunately it started to rain very hard but after some time the clouds moved away and sun started to shine. Thrushes and other passerines started to sing. We found a nice oak-forest along the Nemunas river. There we met also boarder guardians. 8 Cranes and a flock of almost 1000 White-fronted Geese were found from the fields. Geese were very shy! Grey Herons were fishing on the Russian side of the river and a Black Woodpecker was calling. A Kingfisher was seen flying along the river. Song Thrushes and Robins were very common and some Wrens were heard too. We also found a Bittern standing next to the road and it did its best to hide to the reeds.

We continued to the forest south of Silute and we saw a big flock of Cormorants, some Grey Herons and of course White Storks along the river. The road was in bad shape becouse of some resent floods. Finally we found the first Lesser Spotted Eagle and soon another eagle came there too and they landed to the field and we saw them mating! We also saw a Rough-legged Buzzard and a Common Buzzard.

After we had continued we found some deers and they are amazing fast runners, Matti’s Nissan wasn’t speeding up that well. Later we saw a Great Grey Shrike and a Collared Dove before we continued to Silute to do some shopping. The last observation of the day was a Beaver.

We had a dinner at 8 p.m. and we had again some salad and home made sausage. Then we were talking with our host and watching pictures she showed us. It was nice.

Kroku Lanka

On the 14th of April we started early and we were surprised when we noticed that it had been snowing during the night! There was a 5 cm snow-layer on the ground! Anyway we left towards Kintai pools and Kroku Lanka reed-beds and fields.

Kroku Lanka is a big bay in Kuronian Sea and it had big reed-beds and fields, the bay itself is not that good for birds. Next to the bay there is Ventes Ragas spit where is also a bird-station. Kintai is a village along the road to the spit. Neringa is a long dyne that divides Kuronian Sea from Baltic Sea.

On the way to Kroku Lanka we saw lots of Skylarks and Blackbirds. Golden Plover, Lapwings and Snipes were found from the snowy fields and also a Green Sandpiper and a Ringed Plover were seen. We continued to Kroku Lanka harbour where we saw an Oystercatcher. Birds were very tame because of the cold weather; they needed to feed so they weren’t shy at all. So we managed to see a flock of 200 White-fronted Geese very well too.

We continued towards Silute and the turned to Kintai pools. The water-level was low so it really looked good place. 100 ducks were seen, but only interesting was a strange dipper-coloured Mallard. Some Ruffs, a Green Sandpiper, Lapwings, a lonely White-fronted Goose and some swans were seen too. The signs told that we couldn’t continued to the pools that were still in use, so we turned back to old pools. Only Grey Herons, Black-headed Gulls, White Wagtails, Starlings and Lapwings were found.

Towards Neringa

We continued to Ventes via Kintai village. We saw a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and lots of Chaffinches. 5 bullfinches and a Sparrowhawk were new trip-ticks. In the garden of a bird-station we saw a flock of 5 Waxwings and there we saw also 3 huge fellas that were catching birds. There were some smaller ones on the shoreline but now only some mist-nets were working, because of the wind that was finally dropping down.

The younger ringer was checking the mist-nets and there were Goldcrests and Greenfinches hanging. He told us about the numbers they had been ringing and they were huge numbers! Last week they had caught hundreds of Goldcrests and even 8 Firecrests too! Unfortunately now there was almost no migration at all, but from the shore we found some ducks, grebes, mergansers and Coots. In alders we saw Robins, Wrens and tits. On a small pool in the garden there was a Moorhen swimming. The best bird was a Rock Pipit that was feeding on a grass.

Soon we had to continue towards Neringa. On the way we saw some Grey Partridges and Yellow Wagtail, Ruffs, ducks and gulls. On the way to Klaipeda we checked the fields along the road and saw Kestrels, Common Buzzards and so on. Soon we were waiting for a ferry to Neringa.

Neringa

There were ferries going every 30 minutes and the ferry-crossing takes only some minutes. It costs 15 litas to Neringa and back. After some kilometres there is a road-toll.

The biggest villages in Neringa, or maybe better name for the area is Curonian Spit, are Smiltyne, Juodkrante and Nida. The spit is 100 kilometres long and it starts from Russia near Kaliningrad. Only the northern half of the spit belongs to Lithuania. It is only 1 to 4 kilometres wide. There are good roads but you need to saty on the roads especially on dyne-area.

Black magic

We drove straight to the first bigger village to Juodkrante. And right after the village there is a huge Cormorant and Grey Heron colony! There is even a parking place and signs to the place where is even a platform from where to look at the birds. There are 1000 pairs of Cormorants and 500 pairs of Grey Herons breeding on trees! The voices are amazing! There was still snow on the trees so the picture was like from Japanese paintings. Black Woodpecker was one more black bird we saw there.

Under the trees we saw a family of Wild Boars that came to dig something to eat.

We drove next to Juodkrante where we saw 3 species of swans swimming together. While we were watching them we met a local birder that told us about a bird-station nearby. He offered us a opportunity to overnight there so we went to see the place. He told us that he had been controlling many Finnish birds in the station but also gull-rings on the harbour. After some talking we decided to stay there even though there was no electricity or water. Then we still decided to go birding for the last light of the day.

We drove south but it started to snow again. Se we went just to check the highest place of the dynes (49 metrs) which was close to the 31 km sign where next to a parking place. While we were driving back we saw Wild Boars and deers along the road. We heard that Wild Boars were sometimes stopping cars in purpose so they could get something to eat from people. On od the pigs had bitten ringer’s daughter when she hadn’t got anything to give them.

After a dinner in a restaurant we continued to the station where Vytautas (the ringer) had carried a warmer and also extra blankets. So the rest of the evening we were talking with Vytautas and having a good time.

amazing gull-migration

15th of April. We slept well even though it was very cold in our room. There was still a couple of centimetres snow on the ground and 0 degrees.

We left towards Nida where we knew there was a good migration watching place, so called Sun-clock-hill. From the hill we could see all the dynes on the seaside and normally the migration was going very near over the dynes. Now we stayed there for a half an hour but saw only some Chaffinches and Meadow Pipits. Then we continued to the shore of Baltic Sea.

We found a good place from the swimming beach and found even sheltered place behind some buildings. The northern or north-eastern wind was hard but we saw Red-throated Divers, Black-throated Divers, some Scaups, Long-tailed Ducks, Little Gulls and Wigeons migrating. But then we started to see many flocks of Lesser Black-backed Gulls. Soon the flocks started to get bigger and there were flocks of 10 to 60 birds going all the time! They were migrating just over us and because of the wind they were just gliding all the time. In 1.5 hours we saw 1000 Lesser Black-backed Gulls which is a lot! They were almost all adults. We also saw a 2nd calendar-year Glauscous Gull which was the first ever in spring in Lithuania. The Lesser Black-backed Gull migration was also biggest ever!

Dynes and beaches

It was already midday when we continued to the highest place of the dynes. We climbed to the dynes and tried to find a Tawny Pipit that was breeding in the area. We had to stay on the trail of course. The erosion is very big problem here; in this wind we could see sand flying in the air. The scenery was like from Lapland because of there was snow on the dynes. Soon the sun started to shine and it was very bright. Finally we found a Tawny Pipit that we flushed almost from the top of dynes. From the top we could see Curonian Sea where Tufted Ducks and Scaups were swimming. Some flocks of Chaffinches and Meadow Pipits were still migrating. It was very different world than on the other side of the dyne. While we were walking back to our car we saw a Willow Tit and a Wood Lark.

In Juodkrante we said goodbye to Vytautas and after a short walk in a forest behind the station we drove to ferry-terminal. From the ferry we photographed tame gulls that came to feed with bread we threw to the water. Even Little and Lesser Black-backed Gulls came there.

We drove to Palanha and in a church park we found several Nuthatches. Palanga is Lithuanian Riviera with lots of hotels and avenues. There is a huge dock on the shore which was full of people. Close to this dock is a wintering place of Steller’s Eiders. We still saw about 200 Steller’s Eiders that was swimming very close to the dock. Later we heard that in a normal year they should have been gone already. On the sea we saw some gulls, ducks and divers migrating still.

We continued south along the coast and went to walk to a central park. Bullfinches, Coal and Crested Tits were found. The weather changed and soon it was getting warm. Soon we had to continue towards north.

Latvia

We crossed the border to Latvia and soon we parked to a parking place of Lake Pape bird-tower. From the tower we saw Mute Swans, Coots, Great Crested Grebes and Marsh Harriers. Next we stopped along the sea and saw still more than 200 Lesser Black-backed Gulls in one flock. From the fields we found some Greylag Geese.

We continued and about 6 p.m. we were driving in the middle of big fields in Nica. There we found a stunning 2nd calendar year Red Kite that was flying over the road several times. Hanna even managed to get some pictures of it. Also several Common Buzzards wee seen.

We drove until Liepaja where we changed away the rest of our Lithuanian litas in a new ferry-terminal.

The back-winter had really surprised everyone else too. We had been driving all the time with summer-tires too. There were buses and trucks in ditches along the road. The funniest accident was a red Ferrari that was in the middle of the muddy field and an old Massey-Ferguson was pulling it back to the road while a model looking blonde was standing next to the car in a field wearing mini-skirt and high heels.

We continued towards Riga and inland. Almost in every pond we saw Whooper Swans and the first Osprey of the trip was seen. There was even more snow inland, even 30 centimetres! So when we arrived at Riga the scenery was like from a Christmas card. We had just left summer in Palanga and were now in winter in Riga!

We drove through Riga until Saulkrasti where we found a nice hostel. Soon we were sleeping.

Through Estonia and back to home

16th of April. We woke up when the sun was rising. It was minus degrees outside. In the garden we saw a Hawfinch, Soon we wer driving towards the border of Estonia. Next to Riga-bay we saw flocks of Chaffinches and Skylarks migrating south, it seemed there was a back-winter in Finland too.

We drove throgh Audru fields where were some grey geese to Matsalu. A couple of Northern Wheatears and 300 Whooper Swans were seen before we parked to Keemu bird-tower. From the tower we saw a White-tailed Eagle and some strange looking winter-plumaged black-billed Common Terns. 4 Dunlins and 4 Temminck Stints were feeding on the shore and some Lapland Buntings were migrating. In Matsalu mansion garden we saw Nuthatches. Soon we continued towards Tallinn and in Risti we saw a 2nd calendar year Golden Eagle, a Lesser Spotted Eagle and several Common Buzzards.

In Tallinn harbour we saw a couple of Gadwalls and soon we were in a fast catamaran. So we didn’t see much from the boat. In Helsinki Matti left his home to sleep and we took a train to Parikkala. During the trip we had seen 135 bird-species, 120 of them in Lithuania. It wasn’t very much but the weather had been much colder than we had expected. Anyway we had really enjoyed our trip!

J.A. and Matti Lötjönen

In June 1999 we spent unforgettable 2 weeks in Enontekiö Pöyrisjärvi wilderness with my little-brother Janne and Aappo Luukkonen. Our goal was to find Lesser White-fronted Geese that hadn’t been known to breed in Finland for many years anymore. We searched a big area in the wilderness between Naltijärvi, Pöyrisjärvi and Norwegian border.

On the 11th of May Janne and Aappo took a bus from Oulu to Enontekiö Hetta and came to stay in our house. In the evening we already got used to stay in tent as we went to watch Circus Finlandia show! On the half-time we met a man that told us about a Little Bustard that had been on his garden (well, we thought it might have been just a Ruff). Many people came to talk about a flock of Bee-eaters that had stayed for a week in Hetta in the beginning of June. Some people said they had seen more bee-eaters in neighbouring counties too.

The next 2 days we were shopping a lot and packing everything ready. At last in the evening of 13th of June we drove via Nunnanen to Kalmakaltio where we were supposed to begin our work. The first better bird was seen on the way when somewhere between Hetta and Vuontisjärvi we saw a Swallow that was first ever in Enontekiö to me.

To wildernes

We left our car to Kalmakaltio and continued with a local Markku Karkalo’s 4 wheel-drive towards Naltijärvi cottage. The road between Kalmakaltio and Naltijärvi was really bad so most of these 15 kilometres were like on a rollercoaster. It was amazing to see in what kind of places it is possible to drive with a good Toyota four-wheel drive. We were driving through bogs and rivers and on the way pine-forest ended and then there were only birches and willows anymore. The drive took almost 2 hours and several times we had to stop and get out and straighten our legs and spines because of it was really hard to sit in the car. On these stops we saw some birds like Long-tailed Ducks, Common Scoters, Ringed Plovers and Red-necked Phalaropes, a Rough-legged Buzzard and a Kestrel.

Finally we arrived at Naltijärvi. It was a beautiful evening! Sand Martins and House Martins were flying around the cottage and Bluethroats were singing on the birches of fjelds. Markku left us soon and we realized we were really in wilderness! We carried our luggage to the cottage and at 11 p.m. we left to walk around the wilderness nearby.

Naltijärvi rules!

First we walked to Kotajärvi where we heard immediately several Temminck Stints and Spotted Redshanks. After some time I noticed something big on the top of one pine on the other side of the lake and soon it flushed and it was a juvenile Golden Eagle. I shouted to boys and soon we were all watching this majestic eagle soaring on the sky. Soon we saw some Long-tailed Skuas and a Short-eared Owl attacking the eagle! Amazing! We had been only a couple of hours in wilderness and we were already seeing something like this! We watched this show for some time before we continued along the shore and soon found a stunning male Long-tailed Duck that really looked beautiful with Aappo’s new Swarovski with 60 times zoom.

We walked around the Naltijärvi area for whole night and Janne was keeping the trip-list. From the lakes and ponds we found Black-throated Divers, Wigeons, Teals, Tufted Ducks, Common Scoters, Velvet Scoters, Goldeneyes, Red-breasted Mergansers, Golden Plovers, Snipes, Greenshanks, Wood Sandpipers, Common Sandpipers, Red-necked Phalaropes, Common Gulls, Arctic Terns and so on. Passerines we saw were Meadow Pipits, White Wagtails, Bluethroats, Northern Wheatears, Redwings, Willow Warblers, Bramblings, Redpolls, Lapland Buntings and Reed Buntings. Some better species we saw were several Bar-tailed Godwits and Long-tailed Skuas and Janne managed to see one Great Grey Shrike too.

The morning was amazing. On one small lake we were watching Ruffs, a Bar-tailed Godwit, a Dunlin and a Ringed Plover when a lonely Broad-billed Sandpiper flew around us. In the middle of the lake there was a tiny island where a Willow Grouse was perched on the highest place. 3 more Willow Grouses were laughing around the lake. We were thinking that there can’t be too many raptors because of these grouses weren’t hiding at all. But soon we found out that we were wrong. We had just continued to walk towards Naltijärvi when I noticed a raptor flying just behind us. And it looked promising. It disappeared soon but luckily we found it again soon and it was a Gyr Falcon, a lifer number 310 and a self-found tick of course! The falcon seemed to continue to the lake where we had seen a Willow Grouse standing on the island. It was amazing to see a Gyr Falcon flying on hunting flight.
The last observations before the cottage were still good as we saw a Rough-legged Buzzard, a Three-toed Woodpecker, a Sedge Warbler, a Redstart and a Raven. It was already 6:15 a.m. when we finally went to sleep.

Lenkihaka and Naltijärvi

The first trip had told us that we had made the right choise to do all birding during the night. In the midnight sun the light is really good and birds had been very active already in very early morning. Only the couple of first hours after midnight had been a little bit quieter. Anyway the hot sunny days would have been even quieter so then it was good to get some sleep. On the evening we had packed everything again and left with our luggage towards Tseärbmakjohka, Lenkihaka cottage. In Lenkihaka hillside we saw the first flock of geese when 3 Taiga Bean Geese flew over us. Lenkihaka was more fjeld nature and there was a good selection of waders. Golden Plovers were everywhere, but also a Whimbrel, 2 Bar-tailed Godwits, a Temminck Stint a Dunlin, a Spotted Redshank, 2 Red-necked Phalaropes and 3 nice Dotterel were seen. Somewhere we saw a big falcon again which probably was the same Gyr Falcon again. We were already close to the cottage when Aappo scared us and himself when he stumbled and flew to rocks with his head first. Luckily his back-bag was so big that it was higher than his head and he wasn’t hurt at all. But when Aappo realized that his Swarovski was on the top of his bag, he got really scared. Luckily nothing was broken and we could continue the last kilometres to the cottage. We left our bags in and still went to check the nearest lakes and ponds where we found 4 Willow Grouses, 2 Short-eared Owls and 13 Long-tailed Skuas. Then we finally went to our cottage to rest.

At night we left to walk again and climbed up to the top of Pahtavaara where the most common birds were a Meadow Pipit and a Lapland Bunting, but also Golden Plovers and Long-tailed Skuas were numerous. We checked all the lakes and ponds with our scopes before continued to Katajajärvi. Between Pahtavaara and Katajajärvi we checked many ponds and found some Whooper Swans and Long-tailed Ducks, a Golden Eagle, the first Red Fox of the trip. Finally we put up our tent to the north-eastern shore of Katajajärvi where – like on our previous “garden” – Long-tailed Duck, Short-eared Owl and Long-tailed Skua were seen.

Tsuugisautsi

Next evening we left walking again while a Jack Snipe and a Cuckoo were calling around us. We hit Suukisjoki river close to 3 small ponds where we saw Whooper Swans, Tufted Ducks, Common Scoters, Long-tailed Ducks, Goldeneyes and Red-necked Phalaropes, and also lots of Reindeers. We continued along the river towards the next cottage Tsuugisautsi. During the walk we saw a Hen Harrier, a Golden Eagle, 6 Willow Grouses, a Jack Snipe and 3 Short-eared Owls. Very close to Norwegian border we heard a Bullfinch and a Redstart.

Tsuugisautsi cottage was really something… It was situated in the middle of nowhere very close to Norwegian border and it’s attic was full of empty booze-bottled and on the wall there was a huge sprayed text “Smell a big P”. Luckily we hadn’t planned to stay on this cottage but we left some of our luggage there and continued towards the highest fjeld of the area, 600 metres high Valkamapää. There we checked Kalkujärvet and Rautujärvet that were summer-places for sami-people; the latter lakes were on Norway. We saw some Black-throated Divers, Common Scoters and Long-tailed Ducks. On Valkamapää we saw of course lots of Golden Plovers but also Bar-tailed Godwits, Spotted Redshanks, Dunlins and Red-necked Phalaropes. On the top of Valkamapää we also managed to get our heavy ARP-phone to work and managed to contact our wifes and girlfriends. We also called to Markku Korkalo and agreed the day when he picks us up.

From Valkamapää we walked down to Rautujärvi where we stayed on border guardian’s building. There was even a sauna! So during the morning we were cooking crepes and having sauna. Even though the lake was still partly frozen Janne went to swim. On the garden we saw a couple of Ringed Povers, Temminck Stints and a couple of Bar-tailed Godwits. Janne saw a Red Fox from the outhouse and a lonely Taiga Bean Goose was also seen.

Windy

We left again to walk back to Tsuugisautsi in the evening and we picked up the rest of our luggage. Then we continued along the border over Riehtiskero to Liulama where we had promised that we cold stay on a reindeer owner’s cottage. During the walk we saw 6 Whooper Swans, 13 Long-tailed Ducks, 30 golden Plovers, 9 Red-necked Phalaropes, 14 Long-tailed Skuas and some Spotted Redhanks, Dunlins and Temminck Stints and hundreds of reindeers.

Then we had the only misfortunes of the trip (if we don’t count Aappo’s all the time wet boots). We were extremely tired when we finally got to the reindeer-men’s cottage and soon we found out that there was no key to get in anywhere! From the window we saw that the floor was under renovation so there we really no floor at all. The problem was that we were on the treeless and rocky nature and during the night wind had started to blow so strong that it seemed to be impossible to put the tent up. We rested for some time on the stairs of the cottage and saw a Golden Eagle, a Rough-legged Buzzard and a Kestrel and a couple of stunning Bar-tailed Godwits. Then we decided to keep on walking and finally we somehow managed to get our tent up, but then we realized we were too close to a Lapland Bunting’s nest and we still had to move it a little bit. Somewhere northeast from Tseäbmaoaivi, on the shore of a small lake we finally managed to get some sleep.

Summerbirds and ice-hockey

After midnight we walked to Tseärmakjavrrik and walked around several ponds nearby. Then we continued to Pierkkujärvi where we put up our tent next to a reindeer owner’s cottage. In the morning we walked to check some ponds next to the border and also checked Ravddojavrre on the Norwegian side of the border by binoculars. On this walk we saw a beautiful Arctic Redpoll and during the night we had seen altogether 14 Long-tailed ducks, 19 Long-tailed Skuas, some Ringed Plovers, Ruffs, Spotted Redshanks, Temminck Stints and Red-necked Phalaropes.

On the last night of our first part of the trip, 19th of June, we walked from Pierkkujärvi to Naltijärvi. Along this walk we saw the first human of the trip when we saw a couple of reindeer-men fishing. We managed to find nests of a Temminck Stint, a Long-tailed Skua and a Dotterel. Dotterel was of course photographed well, it is a brave bird and you can photograph it very close when it is on it’s nest. Also a couple of Mallard, 4 Rough-legged Buzzards, 2 Hen Harriers, a Short-eared Owl and 2 (Parrot) Crossbills were seen.

In Naltijärvi cottage we slept very well and while we were sleeping there was a thunder-storm going over us. From the windows we saw Willow Warblers, Bluethroats and even a Greenfinch. 2 Whooper Swans visited our shore while I was carrying cooking and drinking water from the lake. In the evening Markku picked us up and we had again a slowly drive to Kalmakaltio. (Markku told that he had been stuck in a bog for an hour both when he had driven us to Naltijärvi and now when he was coming to pick us up.) After some coffee there we finally drove to Hetta where we were at midnight.

We had planned to sleep well but we found out that there was the 7th Stanley Cup ice-hockey final at night. Dallas Stars and Jere Lehtinen won the final after we don’t know how many overtimes. I gave up but Janne and Aappo were watching the whole game.

When I woke up in the morning I was wondering where the boys had disappeared but they had moved to sauna to sleep so they could sleep late without disturbances until the evening.

To Pöyrisjärvi

On the 20th and 21st of June we were laundering and shopping and of course birding. We visited Periläkoski where we saw Siberian Tits and in Sotkajärvi. Of course we spent time with my family too, my boy was now 1.5 months old.

On the 21st of June we drove to Näkkälä where we met Paavo Laakso who had promised to drive us to Pöyrisjärvi. While having coffee Paavo told us stories about some birds he had seen around Enontiekiö and he had seen a Surf Scoter, a flock of Shelducks, many Kittiwakes and even a Great Skua only a couple of weeks earlier. And all these really sounded good. This Great Skua had even seen in Hetta on very same day by Bee-eater twitchers.

In the evening Paavo drove us by his 4 wheel-drive to Pöyrisjärvi where we got a huge apartment for ourselves. It had been raining whole day and it was still raining very hard so we had to just watch to this huge lake from the windows. Anyway we saw Temminck Stints, Common and Herring Gulls with one sub-adult Great Black-backed Gull and 39 Arctic Terns.

Lifer for all

It was raining until the next afternoon and when it finally started to shine we hurried to the shore with our telescopes. In a short time we saw 2 Golden Eagles, 6 Rough-legged Buzzards, a Hen Harrier, a Merlin, a Peregrine and a Crane, Red-throated Divers, Whooper Swans and some Taiga Bean Geese. Then I saw something strange… I was scanning the sky with my telescope when I noticed a gull-like bird soaring above a flock of gulls. Its shape was strange and its wing-beats were very stiff. I told to Janne and Aappo to check the highest “gull” of the flock and from my voice they could understand there was really something strange now. It took ages for them to find the bird, it was so high but finally they found it when it was already flying away from us against the tops of Termisvaara and they both shouted – a Fulmar!

The bird was already far and I started to think that we hadn’t seen it well enough to get it through a rarity-committee. Soon it disappeared and we thought we had lost it but then we saw it flying again towards us. It flew a round over the lake and we managed to see it well! It was a really rare bird in Finland and a lifer to all of us! The next 3 hours we were still scanning to the lake and making notes about te bird. We also called by ARP to Hanna to Parikkala that she would put the news about the bird to beeper. We also called to our “bosses” Jarmo Pääläinen and Sami Timonen. Pretty soon the weather cleared totally and it started to blow from south, so we guessed that Fulmar had flown back to Norway and to Arctic Ocean. It had probably got lost in a rain and fog that had lasted a couple of days?

In the evening we walked to Termisjärvi but then it started to rain again. On this walk we saw a pale Arctic Skua and many Red-throated Divers, Long-tailed Ducks and Red-necked Phalaropes. Also several Bar-tailed Godwits and migrating Ruffs were seen.

Searching and searching for geese

On the next day we loaned a motor-boat from Paavo Laakso that was in his summer cottage and went to check a couple of lakes that were situated outside the protected bog-area in southeast. While we were leaving a 4 wheel-drive came to the cottage with 2 birders from Helsinki, they had decided to try to twitch a Fulmar! They had been twitching a White-winged Lark in Kalajoki, then driven back to Helsinki to pick up all luggage and now they were in Enontekiö wilderness – crazy!

We gave them some instructions (of course we didn’t except them to see any Fulmars) and left by boat to the easternmost part of Pöyrisjärvi and from there along the river to the crossing of Pöyrisjoki and Kalkujoki. From the boat we saw the only Pintails of the trip and some Wigeons, Teals, Tufted Ducks and Goldeneyes. 22 Snipes were displaying along the river and 11 Sedge Warblers were singing. Other birds were a young Golden Eagle, 4 Broad-billed Sandpipers, a Hooded Crow and a Sparrowhawk.

After we had left our boat we walked around several lakes that Paavo had told to be the most possible area to find Lesser White-fronted Geese. Anyway we didn’t find any geese and we saw a Long-tailed Skua catching a tiny Bar-tailed Godwit nestling while the adults were alarming because of us. We felt really bad. Then it started to rain again and on the way back we had serious problems with the motor of the boat. Luckily we finally made it back.

To Maaterjärvi

The next day was again rainy so we stayed in for whole day. But on the next morning Paavo came 4:30 and he drove us by boat to the northern side of the lake. Luckily the fog started to move away and once we got to the shoe we saw a dark Arctic Skua flying over us. We saw some old Arctic Fox nests while walking towards north.

On the way we saw amazing junipers and also some birds like 40 Golden Plovers, several Ringed Plovers, Whimbrels, Dunlins, Temminck Stints, Red-necked Phalaropes and 20 Long-tailed Skuas. Some Fieldfares and Redwings were flying over us and Aappo found the first Scaups of the trip in Maaterlommot. In Maaterjärvi we saw an Osprey and on the lake we saw a couple of Black-throated Divers and Goosanders.

Finally we were in the last leg of our trip in Maaterjärvi where we had a board guardian’s cottage with sauna arranged. It was mid-summer day and we were in the middle of wilderness! We were swimming on the lake and saw 2 Taiga Bean Geese flying over us. Luckily nobody saw us running up from the lake to check the geese with our scopes.

We had even a radio in the cottage and here we hear the first time a Red Hot Chili Pepper’s Scar Tissue song. It has been one of our favourites since ever since. It was strange listen to radio and stupid drunken people that were celebrating mid-summer when we had more than 30 kilometres to the closest road.

Sunshine and nudity

The last full day we were inventing the lakes and ponds on the eastern and south-eastern side of Maaterjärvi. It was a strange day as we were working during the day. The best bird was seen from the windowbefore we started, a Golden Eagle. During the day we saw Black-throated Divers, Whooper Swans, Tufted Ducks, Long-tailed Ducks, Red-breasted Mergansers, Bar-tailed Godwits, Ruffs, Spotted Redshanks, Dunlins, Temminck Stints, Red-necked Phalaropes, Rough-legged Buzzards, Ravens and Long-tailed Skuas. The sun was shining from the cloudless sky and we were swimming on a pool in the middle of nowhere. We were laughing if some NATO-officer was watching the border of Finland and Norway with satellites and saw us walking naked and one of us carrying a machinegun (Aappo and Swarovski).

On our last day I saw a stoat while sitting on a outhouse and later hundreds and hundreds of Reindeers started to gather to the southern side of the lake. Also some people came to the shore and later also a plane landed to the lake. Risto Anunti who was coming to pick us up on the next day was shouting greeting from the plane. He had been fishing on a lake somewhere near and they had had some problems to get the plane back to the air – maybe too many fish? So people had been walking to Maaterjärvi so they could have longer runway.

Last walk

On the last morning we woke up to a strange noise from outside and there were hundreds of Reindeers in our garden! We had counted more than 1500 last evening and now they were in our garden. We hurried to get our telescopes inside. Later with Janne we walked to the top of Maderoaivi where we saw a big yellow pile of stones that was on the border. The place was exactly on Finnish lady’s biceps (watch Finnish map). Finally it was time to leave and when Risto was landing to the lake we saw 5 Taiga Bean Geese flying over us. Unfortunately they weren’t Lesser White-fronted Geese. White we were flying we saw a flock of 1000 Reindeers and finally we landed to Hetta. After a good lunch Aappo took the first bus to Oulu and with Janne we went to pick up my car from Näkkälä. Then we still put a next message to all Finnish birdwatchers: “Enontekiö, Pöyrisjärvi wildernes 12th to 19th and 21st to 27th of June: a Fulmar, 130 Long-tailed Skuas, 2 Arctic Skuas, 8 Golden Eagles, a Gyr Falcon, 25 Rough-legged Buzzards, 75 Long-tailed Ducks, 31 Common Scoters, 4 Dotterels, 25 Bar-tailed Godwits, 39 Dunlins, 29 Temminck Stints, 93 Red-necked Phalaropes, 10 Short-eared Owls. Altogether 76 species”. That really told much what kind of trip we had experienced!

Even though we never found any Lesser White-fronted Geese the trip was even better than we had expected. Luckily we were paid searching for Lesser White-fronted geese not only finding. Thanks to Metsähallitus Ylä-Lappi and Sinnish WWF. Also thanks to Rajavartiolaitos.

Pirkka Aalto

On the 15th of May the long waited trip to Estonia finally started. After all there were 7 participans: Janne Aalto, Hanna Soikkeli, Helge Eskelinen, Kari Kivirinta, Mauri Hautaniemi, Jukka “Piippo” Piispanen and catalan Oriol Clarabuch.

At 6 a.m. we left from Raksila shops to drive towards south. An ATM swallowed Helge’s card but we didn’t care, we left on the schedule.

Piippo was driving first with his yellow “caramel” and Mauri’s Volgswagen was following. We had also my brother Pirkka on our car – he was going to Helsinki.

We were of course counting trip ticks but the first stop was made because of the tank was empty! So we got some common birds to our trip-list while Piippo was getting some gasolin for us from the next service.

When we got more south the trees started to get green and the temperature was getting higher. When we got to Helsinki we had already very hot in our car!

Ferry to Estonia

We found the ferry terminal easily, even though it was difficult to follow Piippo who was driving all the traffic light on yellow. In a harbour we changed marks to krones and somehow we managed to get in to the ferry even though we had bought the cheapest tickets for our cars. We had bigger cars that should have paid more to get in.

Of course we carried a telescope to the upper deck and when the ferry finally left we got some year-ticks like Eiders, Mute Swans. Of course we saw some better birds too like a male Scaup, some Barnacle Geese, a flock 0f 8 Black Guillemots, a Razorbill, 12 Arctic Skuas, divers and some distant flocks of sea-ducks, mostly Long-tailed ducks.

In Tallinn harbour we saw lots of ducks with some Shelducks, also 6 Grey Herons were seen in flight. On the harbour we all were smiling except Oriol who was worried if it would be easy to get to Estonia for him. It was surprisingly difficult to get a spanish to Estonia but finally he got through all the offices and we could see Oriol smiling too!

We filled the tanks (gasonline was half the price than in Finland) and after we had driven through Turba and Rumba and many other strange named places we arrived to Matsalu! After we had been searching for our apartment for some time, we decided to knock to the door of only house of the village that still had lights on and surprisingly it was the keeper of the apartment’s house. So soon we were making a big apartment to our home and it was very late when we finally got to sleep.

Birds, birds, birds!

On the 16th of May we woke up in the middle of paradise! The first bird I saw from the window was a White Stork. Many birds were singing and I had no idea what some of them were! It had been almost winter in Oulu and now we were in the middle of spring!

Once we got out we found Gold Finches, Linnets, Hawfinches and many birds that weren’t’ in Oulu yet like Garden Warblers, Common Whitethroats, Lesser Whitethroats, a couple of Icterine Warblers and Thrush Nightingales. There were huge numbers of Starlings but the strangest noice was coming from the fields nearby. We hurried towards the fields and passed a pool where were a couple of Gadwalls and Garganeys and soon we saw amazing numbers of Barnacle Geese! About 10 000 geese were feeding in a big flock very close to us! We started to check the flock as well as it was possible but found only some Greylag Geese amongst the Barnacle Geese. Behind the fields we saw a bay where a couple of White-tailed Eagles were perched on the rocks.

After the breakfast the rest of our group was up too and soon we saw something amazing, we saw the geese leaving to migration! It was one of the best bird-experiences I had ever had! First we heard an enormous noise from the fields and it took some time to understand it was from geese not a local Massey-Ferguson! We hurried to the fields and saw thousands and thousands of geese flushing and leave towards Finland. Cameras were of course clicking when the geese were flying over us but soon it was quiet – the fields were empty! Only thing we heard were songbirds.

Helge, Mauri and Piippo left to Keemu bird-tower that was nearby and of course they managed to see a Red-breasted Goose! Unfortunately it wasn’t there anymore when we got there. Anyway we saw lots of Black-tailed Godwits, a Bar-tailed Godwit, some White-tailed Eagles and a White-fronted Goose.

To Saarenmaa

At midday we emptied our rooms and left towards Saarenmaa. Soon we were on ferry-terminal and got to the ferry that was just leaving. It took only about a half an hour and we saw a Sandwich Tern, divers, Cormorants and Scaups on the way.

In Saarenmaa we found soon more Sandwich Terns from Väigeväin bridge and then continued towards Santlalahti. It was told to be a good place. Unfortunately we had problems to find the place and after all we asked help from local drunk. One of them left to show us how to find the place and so we were following a Lada through fields towards the bay. Once we found the place the Lada had flushed half of the birds and then it was difficult to get rid of our guide. After we had given him a bottle of Saku beer he finally left. Luckily the place seemed to be good and there were still lots of birds.

Sandy beaches were full of geese shit (we were thinking what could be done with this big amount of it) and we saw several Little Terns a White-tailed Eagle, many Pochards and Gadwalls and some Slavonian Grebes. Reed and Great Reed Warblers were singing on the reeds and a Peregrine Falcon was soaring on the sky. From the other side of the pools we still found some Dunlins, Temminck’s Stints and Velvet Scoters.

When we were back to our cars we found a strange pipit that we managed to identify as a Tawny Pipit before it disappeared. It was already late when we continued to Kuressaari which was a surprisingly big city. After some searching we found a good hostel. Older participants got better and younger cheaper rooms.

In the evening we still had a good dinner that PPLY paid. It was really good and even though one of us had problems with paying with his credit card, we had really good time. It is good to remember it is not too long Estonia was still part of Russia – everything can’t work as well as in Finland.

Hardcore birding

On the 17th of May the rooster woke up early. We had a great breakfast and Piippo told he had seen a Black Redstart and heard a Turtle Dove from their window. We had heard only a Thrush Nightingale – all night and too loud! We searched for the Black Redstart for some time and some of us managed to see it briefly. A Collared Dove was calling in the garden.

Soon we drove to Sörvesäär to do sea and migration watching Unfortunately there was no migration so soon we were bored to watch only Eiders and some were collecting fossils (Hanna and Helge), some were checking all the old garbage like a scooter (Mauri) and some were climbing on an old wrecked boat (Piippo). The weather was perfect, maybe 20 degrees, so we really enjoyed! Soon we continued to next places but only good birds were a Grey-headed Woodpecker that Kari saw while visiting a bush and an eagle that we saw in Löulahti, unfortunately it was too far to identify,

In Linnulahti 6 Great Reed Warblers were singing, a Bittern blowing, Dunnock was seen singing on the top of a tree (some could only see it was singing) and on the bay a Red-necked Grebe and a female Smew were found. On the sky we saw an Osprey and a Goshawk. The next bay, Kuressaarenlahti showed us something else than birds, a Red Fox was sleeping in one garden and a huge Grass Snake was sleeping in the shore. Reed Warbler was singing and many Grey Herons, Gadwalls and Black-tailed Godwits were also seen.

It was again getting late when we headed towards the ferry. Drivers were the most tired but then some funny things happened. First a deer or something like that ran just in front of our car and then a two legged beautiful hitch-hiker was picked up to Piippo’s yellow party-car. I felt sorry for this girl, the men on the car were a bit older then she was.

There was still room for two cars on the ferry when it was our turn, but only Piippo’s car with a girl still with them got there. The last place was for an ambulance that came soon and we were left to the island.

Arctica!

When we finally got to the next ferry we could see than arctica had begun! There were lots of big flocks of sea-duck on the sky! Once we got to Virtsu the rest of our group who had dropped the hitch-hiker somewhere, had already seen thousands of Common and Velvet Scoters and Long-tailed Ducks. This was what we had hoped to see! After all, in a couple of hours, we saw about 200 000 birds – mostly Long-tailed Ducks.

When the migration stopped we continued to Penijö where we had an apartment for the rest of the trip. There was a sauna too and of course we heated it up right away. It was nice to watch a local pair of White Storks breeding on the top of an electric pole in the garden. Grasshopper Warblers were singing, corn Crakes shouting and a Tawny Owl calling while we were waiting for our turn to go to sauna.

After having the sauna we left with Hanna and Oriol to a short night-singer trip and we heard a couple of River Warblers, a Sopped Crake and more Corn Crakes. It was nice to find out that a Grasshopper Warbler comes to sing to a torch light – so we could see it well.

Good birds!

On the 18th of May we had a great breakfast and soon found a male White-backed Woodpecker from the garden. Soon we continued to bird-towers that were nearby. While we were walking to Penijö tower we realized it was going to be a hot day! From the tower we saw a Golden Eagle, a White-tailed Eagle, a Goshawk, some Grey Herons, a Sandwich Tern and a White-fronted Goose. Next we walked a patch that lft from the tower. Icterine Warblers were everywhere and also an Elk, a Red Fox and deers were seen. I saw the best bird when I went to walk to a wet meadow and flushed a Short-toed Lark!

Once we were back in our garden Oriol found a Marsh Tit which also disappeared soon.

Then we continued to Kloostri tower which was another high Russian type of border guardian tower, 12 to15 metres high iron thing. Anyway the view was again really good and amazing 56 White Storks, 9 Grey Herons, 2 White-tailed Eagles and many other birds were seen.

Suitsu tower was in the middle of a forest where a Wryneck and a White-backed Woodpecker were heard. Only a White-tailed Eagle and an Osprey were seen.

Next we continued to Lihula to eat and then we drove to Puhtu grove near Virtsu. It was a beautiful forest with big trees and many flowers. Some Wrens and Icterine Warblers were heard. A bird-station was situated in the middle of the grove and we met a couple of Finnish birders that were staying there.

Soon it was time for evening arctica so we stayed there. Unfortunately most of the birds would have been seen much better from Virtsu so we decided to drive there. We counted 27 000 Barnacle Geese, some small flocks of Brent Geese, some Sandwich Terns and so on were seen but mostly far on the sea.

A perfect day had a bad ending when we heard that Finland had lost to Sweden in ice-hockey WC final 0-1.

North side of Matsalu and bog birding

On the 19th of May we woke up early and headed to Virtsu again. Unfortunately we saw only some tens of Black-throated and Red-throated Divers. The wind was too strong! A nice flock of 4 Red-necked Phalarope were seen migrating between the waves.

After the breakfast we went to check the towers of the northern side of Matsalu. While we were filling the tank in Lihula we saw the first Montagu’s Harrier of the trip.

On the way to Haeska tower we saw another Montagu’s Harrier and on one shore we saw Little Terns and a Whooper Swan. From the tower we saw Black-tailed Godwits, more Little Terns and a Bewick’s Swan. Next we continued to Puisenniemi and on the way we saw 2 male and a female Montagu’s Harrriers and on the shore 8 Red-necked Phalaropes and 3 Curlew Sandpipers. Puisenniemi wasn’t good so soon we headed to Haapsalu to eat. The food was good and cheap. Roe Deer in red wine sauce was something we students don’t normally eat.

In the afternoon we drove to a big bog area to search for eagles. Soon we found one flying on the sky over a forest and it was a Lesser Spotted Eagle! Soon another bird came to fly together with the first one and they started displaying! Amazing! Next stop was made in the middle of a big bog where the drivers started to sleep just along the road. The rest of us saw Montagu’s Harriers, Marsh Harriers, a Common Buzzard, 2 White-tailed Eagles, Ravens, Cranes and White Storks. In the evening we drove back to Penijö where Oriol heated up sauna and managed to do it very well! A Long-eared Owl was calling on the forest nearby.

Black Storks and Lesser Spotted Eagles

On the 20th of May we woke up really early 3:15 a.m. Soon we headed toward Kabli ringing station. After a couple of hour’s drive we found out that the station was closed. Even a big fella was closed. From the tower and from the shore we found 8 Reed Warblers, 3 Marsh Warblers, a Blackcap, a Black Woodpecker, Grey Plovers, Little Ringed Plovers and a Wood Lark that flew over us.

As we hadn’t got an opportunity to see any ringing we decided to continue to Nigula National Park which was situated near Latvian border. On the way we stopped in good looking forests and heard 2 Wrens, an Icterine Warbler, a Dunnock, 2 Oriols and a Red-breasted Flycatcher. Also a Nutcracker was seen flying over the road before we parked next to the information centre.

A guide spoke only estonian but he let us go in to the National Park because of Kari had joined a local bird-club. We left to walk to 6.8 km long trail and after a kilometre or so we got to the first of two bird-towers. We had hardly got up when Piippo found a Black Stork flying far over the huge bog. We were enjoying this majestic bird when Helge told there was another Black Stork much closer! The situation was so amazing that Piippo told it was dreams come true for him! After some time we continued towards the next tower. The bog was amazing; it was really like in Lapland! From the second tower we saw a Great Grey Shrike and a Whimbrel, but also a Honey Buzzard, 2 Common Buzzards and a Lesser Spotted Eagle. There would have been a possibility to see also a Greater Spotted Eagle too.

The trail led next to a huge grove which was very different from the bog. There were Icterine Warblers, Wrens and even 5 Red-bresated Flycatchers singing! New trip-ticks were a Treecreeper and a Greater Spotted Woodpecker.

Once we were walking back to our car it started to rain. Soon we were driving towards Pärnu and in the city we went to a restaurant. In the evening we were once again driving to Virtsu when police stopped us. I was driving first time during the trip and of course without lights. Piippo and Oriol were on the trunk so I hoped the policemen won’t open the door. Luckily they let us go without checking us more carefully.

It was very quiet in Virtsu, but we met a local man who seemed to know everything about us. He knew where we had been and so on. People were really interested of us.

After sauna we left to a night-singer trip by bike with Hanna and Oriol, that’s why we had brought our bikes. We heard 3 River Warblers, 14 Grasshopper Warblers, a Marsh Warbler, 100 Thrush Nightingales, 32 Corn Crakes, tens of Spotted Crakes and so on. We even tried to see a Corn Crake and managed to get it only 12 metres from us but still we didn’t see it!

Same places again

On the morning of 21st of May we decided to check all the best places again. Anyway we started on the fields that had lots of juniper but we found only lots of cows. The place looked perfect for a Barred Warbler.

On the way to Matsalu information centre we saw 3 Whooper Swans, but the fields were empty, no more geese. On the pool we saw a Shelduck and a Garganey and on the garden many Hawfinches, Gold Finches and Linnets, In Keemu tower we saw a White-tailed Eagle, Black-tailed Godwit, Red-necked Phalaropes and Shelducks. Kari managed to see a Sanderling too.

In Saastna we visited a shop and there we met another man who knew everything about us even though we hadn’t been in Saastna before – crazy!

When we started to feel tired we decide to visit Penijö information centre. A local guide showed us some slides and most of the places were already familiar. Next we walked a short trail but only a Blackcap was heard.

In the evening we still visited Virtsu and saw a flock of 260 Brent Geese migrating along the shoreline us and some more flocks flying straight over us. After sauna we went to sleep.

Back to home

On the 22nd of May while we were packing our cars we found some Tree Sparrows. On the way to Tallinn we made the only stop in Risti where we saw no eagles, just a couple of Honey Buzzards and Stock Doves.

In Tallinn we did some shopping and of course visited Old Tallinn. The best bird was a singing Black Redstart. After a good dinner we left to the ferry and on the ferry we still spent some time on the deck and of course did some more shopping. On the toll the officers were very interested of our optics but luckily we had all written on the paper already when we had left towards Estonia.

On the way north from Helsinki our drivers started to be too tired to continue. So we had to stop to Asikkala and book hotel rooms. The rooms were much more expensive than in Estonia!

On the 23rd of May we left early to drive towards Oulu. In Pihtipudas Kortteinen we twitched a flock of 11 Dotterels on one big fields. Local farmer welcomed us back to Finland and tried to drop some shit over our cars. Well our cars were maybe not too well parked.

In Kärsämäki we did some shopping and finally we were in Oulu where we drove straight to Jätäri where we twitched a Corn Bunting!

J.A.